Sommelier India - India's only wine magazine

Ghulam Naqshband, R.I.P.

2010-03-18T10:37:59Z

A cultivated, dignified man, Ghulam Naqshband was a great friend and supporter of Sommelier India WINE magazine and we will miss his gentle presence greatly. Although a bachelor, Ghulam kept a beautiful home and an excellent table. He was a genuine wine lover and started "The Wine Society" in Delhi in 1991 with the support of the French Embassy. Originally called Table de France, it was the first wine club in the country. Share your memories here or on our Facebook page.

]]> A regular guest at the Sommelier India Wine Dinners, Ghulam thoroughly enjoyed his wine and was himself a great host. While we didn't experience his cooking, there are tales of his mastery in the kitchen, especially in French cuisine. On one occasion when The Wine Society had organised a 'cooking with wine' dinner, Ghulam was there up in front with all the ladies talking and participating with the Chef. A fact not commonly known is that it was Ghulam who started the Alliance Francaise in Delhi, as far back as 1952.

Born and brought up in Kasur in Pakistan, Naqshband has been a witness to the 1947 partition and decided to stay back in India even though his parents and two brothers were in Pakistan." I was determined to stay in Delhi even though it meant living by myself. I chose to live life on my own terms. I don't believe in a two-nation theory; I believe in one god and don't adhere to religious demands. Today I am a contended human being," he says wiping away every sign of remorse. He turned down every opportunity he got post partition to live with his family." The social and political environment there did not suit my secularism. I found that people there formed their opinions based on the media. They took their newspapers' biased reports seriously," he says disappointedly. He joined the Embassy of Iraq and later went on to work with Saha and Rai travel agencies in Delhi. A little known fact about the man is that he founded the Alliance Francaise de Delhi in 1952 to promote the French language and culture." This opened new avenues for me with all the exposure I got," he exclaims.

His eclectic interest apart from travel included reading, writing and art. Mr Naqshband's association with travel and tourist trade went beyond industry position, as he was actively involved in many social and cultural organization.

Each year, a deserving student of travel and tourism management at the Indian Institute of Tourism and Travel Management (IITTM), Gwalior, receives a scholarship in his name from the Naqshband Educational Trust for Indian Culture. He also set up the Rotary Naqshband Institute for the physically challenged.

Ghulam Naqshband will be remembered for his zest for life, his genteel personality and his discipline.

Guess who kept wine alive during the dark ages?

2010-03-18T00:37:22Z

It was the Church! Once the Roman Empire fell, it was the Church that was critical in the revitalization, production and promotion of wine because wine was associated with holiness (the body of Christ) and comfort. By the Middle Ages, the Church had developed and owned some of Europe's greatest vineyards. The Bendictines casting their influence over Alsace, Germany and Austria; and the Cistercians running Cote d'Or and Burgundy.

Is drinking red wine bad for Indians? You make the call

2010-03-17T23:56:46Z

For all the talk about wine being good for your health, a new study finds that wine even small amounts of alcohol consumption harms Indians. These findings are based on a study covering 4,400 drinkers and an almost equal number of non-drinkers (the control group) in 10 cities by doctors from AIIMS, Centre for Chronic Diseases, Public Health Foundation of India and Madras Diabetes Research Foundation.

]]> The report emphasizes that Indians who have consumed alcohol were at 40% greater risk of developing coronary heart disease (CHD) than those who didn't drink at all. Categorizing Indian drinkers into three categories namely heavy drinkers consuming more than 28 grams per day, moderate drinkers consuming 14-28 grams per day and light drinkers drinking less than 14 grams per day. Light drinkers had a 40% greater risk of CHD compared to non-drinkers with the chances increasing to 60% for moderate drinkers and nearly 100% for heavy drinkers. Each drink is equal to 14 grams of alcohol.

Dr Ambuj Roy, assistant professor of cardiology at AIIMS, told the Times of India which first highlighted the report, "Benefits of moderate alcohol consumption have been found among southern European populations from the Mediterranean region and Caucasians in Europe and North America. However, in Indians, it clearly causes harm just like in African Americans."

So why does alcohol's effect vary between races? "It could be genetic. It could also be because of drinking pattern. Of the people we studied, 55% were binge drinkers and had more than four drinks a day at one go. Such amounts can never be safe," Dr Roy, the lead author of the study, said.

The study highlights a few other reasons explaining the findings. "There may be heterogeneity in effect of alcohol on CHD in different ethnicities and the protective effect may be absent or more modest in populations other than that in Mediterranean or South Europeans. This could be hypothesised to be due to unfavourable variant of alcohol dehydrogenase which is known to impact the effect of alcohol on CHD," the study said.

"Secondly, drinking patterns may account for the difference in results. In particular, Mediterranean drinking patterns are characterised by the use of daily constant amounts of alcohol mainly in the form of wine which has been associated with protection against CHD as compared to irregular heavy or binge drinking that provides no favourable effect on CHD," it added.

Here at Sommelier India, we believe that one should always drink wine in moderation. While we recognize that alcohol consumption can be harmful, we are also aware of the other research (highlighted on our website and in our print magazine) that drinking red wine in moderation can reduce blood clotting and reduce blood vessel damage caused by fat deposit. This is largely because red wine is a rich source of antioxidants flavonoid phenolics including resveratrol.

You can read about those other studies here. We hope that AIIMS will conduct research about wine's relation to an Indian's health specifically versus just doing broad alcohol consumption studies.

Culinary mysteries romanced by gorgeous Grover wines

2010-03-17T20:18:23Z

The fine dining Indian restaurant, Nawab Saheb, at the Renaissance Mumbai Hotel and Convention Center celebrated the month of love in a very unique manner with the Kamasutra Food Festival, writes Suneeta Sodhi Kanga. From 14th to 21st February, Chef Bhairav Singh, Master Indian Chef created the choicest, authentic Indian food preparations inspired by the ancient texts. Adding to the romance were heady wines from the Nandi hills. Right: Nawab Saheb restaurant

]]> Winemaker Karishma Grover, representing the third generation in the family business, came down personally to pair her lovely wines from Grover Vineyards.

The Nawab Saheb was decorated to represent a traditional look to match the exotic meal which was served in clay pots and earthenware crockery and the food relished without the use of cutlery. Taste and touch - a heady combination.
Left: A bottle of Grover's La Reserve

The Kamasutra, besides being an ancient scripture on love and pleasure, is of historical relevance as it also carries secrets about the usage of different ingredients. According to this revered and world-renowned text, food plays an important role in keeping the body, mind and spirit invigorated. There are seven secret or key ingredients - Garlic, Dry Dates, Honey, Chillies, Almonds, Saffron and Spices - that play an important role and have been further interpreted and used by Indian professional cooks or khansamas and bawarchis across the world.

Says Chef Bhairav Singh, "These ingredients work on your body in different ways: garlic improves blood circulation, onion keeps your body cool, chillies increase iron levels. For them to be effective, they have to be eaten or cooked in a particular way so that their flavours do not get overpowered by others.

When asked what factors had been kept in mind while pairing her wines with the Indian fare that evening, Karishma said, "Honestly, while tasting the food, I thought about my enjoyment of the wine and food pairing. This is really key in pairing wine with food.

"With Indian food, because of the spices (the food at KS was delightfully aromatic, more than usual Indian fare), I also try to pair the spices in the food with the flavours in the wine. But it really boils down to a truly enjoyable experience!" Karishma concluded.

From the salad to the dessert, I indulged in a meal that had been created keeping in mind age-old tradition and custom. The tempting menu for the festival comprised of set meals in three categories viz. Vegetarian, Non-Vegetarian and Seafood. I began this interesting interpretation meal with a welcome drink, Grover Vineyards' Nandi Hills India Sauvignon Blanc. The wine has a pleasant refreshing mouth-feel and shows intense floral and grapefruit aromas with a hint of guava and dried fruits that adds complexity. The crisp acidity enhances the lingering taste of a well-structured wine.

This was followed by Grover Vineyards Nandi hills India Viognier which matched perfectly with the honey marinated Dates and Chilli annas ki chaat. The Viognier has a pleasant refreshing and rich mouth feel with intense aromas of peach, apricot and tropical fruits complemented by floral notes and a hint of honey. It was a good paired with the spicy Indian cuisine.

For the main course, I could choose from a wide array of delectable dishes like Daura e tafreeh (Lobster marinated with fresh garlic and black pepper cooked in charcoal). Grover Vineyards Nandi Hills India Rose Shiraz was well paired with the Lobster. It has delicate aromas of rose with wonderful flavours of cherry and strawberry jam. Well-structured and dry, it could also be a perfect aperitif and perfectly complements delicate Indian cuisine.
Left: Chef Bhairva Singh
Paya Masala (Lamb trotters simmered overnight on charcoal with the chef's special spices), Lasooni Seekh (skewered mixture of fresh garlic and saffron finished in charcoal) and Shabnam ke moti (Spinach and cumin marinated stuffed fresh mushroom with cottage cheese, chilli finished with mustard and charcoal) was served next which I thoroughly enjoyed with the Grover Vineyards Nandi Hills India Cabernet Shiraz. This Shiraz has intense aromas of black current and raspberry with a hint of spiciness. It matched perfectly with roasted meats and the tandoor preparations.

Nail ki Nazakat (Chef's special lamb shanks curry smoked with black pepper) was reserved for Grover Vineyards La Réserve Nandi Hills India . La Réserve is created with passion and reverence for tradition. It is produced from a hand-picked selection of Cabernet Sauvignon. Matured six months in French oak barrels, the wine gains in structure and complexity and has a powerful bouquet of luscious ripe red and black fruits with an exquisite hint of spice. It combines grace and splendour on the palate with chocolate, coffee beans and vanilla flavours. The finish is long, ample and almost magical.

Karishma was in a fix when I asked which of these was her favourite wine, "This is like asking me to choose between my siblings!!! But I do like the Viognier and the Rosé. Please note that these answers usually depend on how I am feeling at the point when I answer, because I can walk away and an hour later feel like, "No,no, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Cabernet Shiraz are my favourites! So really the answer to this will be: the Art Collection and the La Reserve!"

When asked if she would like to share a personal wine story, Karishma said, "At University, we once decided to get together the students studying Food Science and the winemakers to do a wine and cheese pairing. However, the group conducted this in a way I had never encountered before. All of the cheese was served to us, and all the wine. We were allowed to experiment with what pairings worked for us, which resulted in lots of loud and heated arguments, but a thoroughly unforgettable experience. It has really changed the way I look at wine and food pairing!

The Sharabi Paan (Betel leaves stuffed with semolina saffron pudding with Gulkand and Rum) added a sweet end to this amazing food experience.

Fine Italian Wines from Dal Cero, a Pune tasting

2010-03-17T19:17:12Z

"As we are five cousins, of the third generation of the Dal Cero family, involved with wine production at our family winery, we are sure about the quality of our wines", said Francesca Dal Cero, Export Manager, Dal Cero F.lli Società Agricola, at an informal and enjoyable wine tasting evening on 4th March 2010 at Taj Blue Diamond, Pune, writes Brinda Gill.
Right: Nico Dal Cero, Sneha Chavan (Kiara Wines), Sandip Mukherjee (General Manager, Taj Blue Diamond Hotel), Francesca Dal Cero, Ravish Ahuja (Kiara Wines), and Shonal and Sajjid Chinoy.

]]> The beginnings of the Dal Cero winery go back to 1934 when Francesca's grandfather Augusto Dal Cero planted vines at his 15 hectares vineyards in Roncà, Veneto, in north-east Italy. The vineyards flourished and years later when his sons -Giuseppe and Dario - visited Tuscany in 1981, they fell in love with the region. "Seeing the potentiality of Tuscany with its world famous wines they bought 6 hectares of vineyards and produced fine wines. We now have 45 hectares of vineyards in Tuscany".

The Dal Cero winery produces ten wines of which three- Corte Giacobbe Soave DOP (a white wine produced from Garganega grapes), Sangiovese Rosato IGP Toscana (a rosé produced from Sangiovese grapes) and Selverello Sangiovese IGP Toscana (an unoaked red produced from Sangiovese grapes) are being imported into India by Kiara Wines.

Left: The third generation of the Dal Cero family
In the course of the evening Francesca shared information on the wines as they were served along with an offering of a choice of fine cheeses, delicious vegetarian and non-vegetarian appetizers, grapes and nuts. "As Roncà has volcanic stones mixed with its soil the minerality of the soil can be tasted in the Corte Giacobbe. The area has cold winters and hot summers that make for good flavours, good acidity and helps in preserving the wines. On the other hand, Tuscany has a warmer climate which is perfect for red wines that the region specializes in. For producing the Sangiovese Rosata the skin is left with the juice for just 24 hours for colour extraction, where as for the Selverello the skin and juice are left in contact for three weeks", explained Francesca

She added that the three wines had been specially selected for the Indian market as they are young, fresh, fruity and easy drinking wines that will appeal to wine drinkers in India. "Though wine is not part of Indian tradition, I feel Indians are becoming more interested in wines and will be more passionate about wines in the future. It is always a pleasure to have a nice glass of wine with a good meal!"

Tasting Notes:

* Corte Giacobbe Soave DOP

A brilliant straw-yellow colour with gold hues. On the nose it offers delicate scents of flowers and fruits, clearly identifiable pear and apple. In the mouth is fresh and well balanced with a finishing of almonds, typical of the wine, and a long and persistent aftertaste. Pleasant as an aperitif, it is particularly suited with pasta, white meat, fish and vegetables. Serving temperature: 10 - 12 ° C.

* Sangiovese Rosato IGP Toscana

A bright and vivid pink colour, on the nose is captivating with sweet and intense scents of strawberry and raspberry. On the palate it is pleasantly fruity and rich with distinct notes of ripe mixed berries and a refreshing finishing note of gooseberry and red currant. It goes well with the entire meal. Perfect with assorted cold meats and salami. Serving temperature: 10 - 12 ° C

* Selverello Sangiovese IGP Toscana

A brilliant ruby red colour, with a bouquet of red fruit, particularly cherry and raspberry, and spicy hints. Delicate, balanced and lightly bodied. The result is a light and fresh red wine which pairs with meat, games and cheeses. Serving temperature: 18°C

Chianti Classico and the Baron

2010-03-17T18:30:41Z

There are many romantic tales surrounding the winemakers of Italy, but few are as rewarding as that of the House of Baron Francesco Ricasoli. Thirty-second in the heritage the Ricasoli family tree traces its antecedents to the 12th century. Today they are the largest producers in the Chianti region and Brolio wines are well received domestically as also internationally. The Estate saw a wave of industrialisation with a period of takeover, but the family is now back as winners after recapturing their glory, writes Ameeta Sharma.

]]> Baron Francesco's father, who died last year, lived in the family castle that provides one of the most scenic views, on a clear day all the way to Siena. It was his ancestor who was largely responsible for taking Chianti Classico in the 19th century from a humble wine to a giant to reckon with. Winemaking techniques were pruned and rules laid so that these wines could be stocked next to the best the world had to offer.

The focus is not on too many labels but the quality ensured in each label produced by them. Enologists Carlo Ferrini and Marco Cerqua are part of the team here. Wine enthusiasts and wine critics, alike, give these wines high points which are unique in many ways. It was during the unveiling of the next vintage of Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva in Florence when the DOCG Castello di Brolio 2007 and Riserva Rocca Guicciarda 2007 were sampled. Of course the IGT and Chardonnay could not be tasted here but these have been tasted earlier and came up trumps for the style, balance and structure of the wines.

A few questions that Barone Francesco Ricasoli addressed with his trademark honesty for Sommelier India WINE magazine about his wines, estate and plans for India.Interviewed by Ameeta Sharma.

Your wine, Casalferro IGT, which I remember from tasting a few years ago is a wine of great character. How has that evolved?
Casalferro or the Iron House (as translated) is a very important wine. It is IGT and has been very well received and it changed the style of red wine (of the region). Late this year we will release vintage 2010 which will be the next step of this wine. It will change and be even better, the wine is different. It's the natural consequence of evolution of the château in the last 15 years.

Is there anything else new being planned by you for the market?
Another new label to be launched later this year is 100% Merlot. It's a merlot and yet not a merlot. It took 15 years for us to get to this wine as it is now. We used this merlot because merlot has more maturity. The vines are 17 years old and as a wine this is great.

Our white wine, we are going to make 100% Chardonnay. Again, we are known for the reds but we proposed chardonnay as it was a challenge and many years were invested in exploring the possibility. It is popular in Japan. You need to know it to be able to appreciate it. We are not known for these wines but each of the Brolio labels has been a challenging experiment.

While most Chianti Classico producers give exact an percentage of grapes other than Sangiovese you do not list them on the label. The nose on the sample tasted was indeed unique. Any specific reason for not mentioning other grapes on the label?
Only the principal grape is mentioned on the label because Chianti Classico has a recipe with Sangiovese. The chromosome of the wine changes every year as far as permitted grapes are used. We declare the 80% of Sangiovese but why do people need to know the other details? In Barolo too same rule applies. The rest should not matter as far as the rule is followed.

Being on top brings responsibilities. My methods were earlier considered risky but today they are applauded. My wine is now on Singapore Airlines, two years ago this was difficult to imagine. We have to go ahead but not without remembering the past. We have to face up to the competition and we have to go ahead.

What would you list as the main strengths of the house of Barone Ricasoli?
Our focus at the vineyards and winery is on quality. We now have the knowledge. The knowledge, whatever you do, makes the difference. Fine tuning with anything one does is important. This allows us to, today, vinify the same vineyard with experience and knowledge. Like the selection of old clones of Sangiovese that we have been working with - now we understand better. Hopefully, in two years, we will have results of that too. There is the job of certification, and if everything goes right, a new clone will be available. In 2013 the wine of this vine would be available. At the end, the need to do better is always there.

Any future plans for the property - rooms for visitors to stay? Or other future plans for the tasting rooms, winery visits, even allowing private weddings in your family Chapel?
My father passed away last year. I always keep an eye on the future but things are different with each generation. I try to do my best. The restaurant in the property is completely changed from what it was a couple of years ago. For the moment we do not have rooms to stay but maybe one day... even private weddings in the family chapel. Earlier my father was living in the castle. I do not live there as I live away. We will see what happens next.

Where does India feature in your future plans as a market?
I have not been in India yet. Surely wine popularity will take time but it will come. India is a challenge, I went to China and that is a challenge too. We have no distributor currently but India is important.

Brolio wines did make a brief appearance in the Indian market and it remains to be seen if they can continue. In the meantime Barone Francesco Ricasoli continues to do what he is good at - ensuring good quality wines and research for better products.

Mingling wine and music in Munich

2010-03-04T18:06:26Z

If you are travelling through Europe in the next few weeks to attend the numerous wine events taking place such as Prowein, Toques & Clochers, Bordeaux En Primeurs or Vinitaly, take a day or two off to stay at the Mandarin Oriental, Munich, suggests Reva K. Singh. Munich is one of Europe's major music capitals, and the hotel is just steps away from the world-famous Bavarian State Opera House. Right: Mandarin Oriental, Munich, suite view

]]> Quietly tucked away in a side street, yet centrally located near the famed Maximilianstraße, the Mandarin Oriental is an elegant gem of Neo-Renaissance charm, providing the highest levels of personalised service in the city and award-winning restaurant and bars.

The newly refurbished 48 spacious rooms and 25 suites offer the finest in contemporary luxury and, along with the stunning roof-top pool, feature views that stretch across the picturesque surroundings of the old town.

Give yourself a treat and avail of their Opera package: The package starts at EUR534 per person and includes:
• One night's accommodation in a double room
• Cocktail Reception on the hotel's spectacular roof top terrace
• Three-course Gala Dinner at Michelin-starred Restaurant Mark's
• Transfers to and from the Opera House

On Sunday 14 March the programme is - "Le Nozze di Figaro" by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, starring Erwin Schrott as Figaro and Barbara Frittoli as Countess Almaviva.

For further details please contact in India
Indiva Marketing at telephone 0091 22 6638 7261 or 7362
media@indivamarketing.com or ridheema.singh@indivamarketing.com or shahfreen.elavia@indivamarketing.com
www.indivamarketing.com

A Sunday by the pool in Andheri

2010-03-04T05:41:35Z

So here we all were. Gathered by the pool at "The Club", that veritable private oasis in the midst of the cacophony of sight and sound of downtown Andheri. The wine brains trust of Mumbai town, were gathered on this particular Sunday in celebration of what else but Vino, Wein Vin..Wine!! What other reason is there to get out of bed on a Sunday?? A visitor's report.

]]> This particular reason, the Club's inaugural, 'Wine Fest'. A carnival of sights and sounds all fashioned around the concept of exposing the high-brow membership to all manner of wine, both Imported and domestic. All in all, about a dozen agents, companies and wine producers were on hand to peddle their wares to the gathering mass. It doesn't take a Rhodes Scholar to deduce the hypothesis, that if there is enough free booze on hand, people being people will swarm like bees to a honey pot to have their fill. And indeed they did just that.

There were only two imported wine companies strutting their stuff on this particular day. One, showcasing an all Italian selection, and the other, well-known big little company FineWinesnMore, offered a far broader array of wines from varying points of the compass. Given a choice between sluicing Indian wine and or a bevy of high quality imported wines into your glass, you will understand why the popularity of the latter, in particular from team FineWinesnMore, was at a high. I set myself the task of trying as much as I could, all in the name of my own further education, to uncover what was hot and what was not in good old Mumbai town.

I thought the best place to start was with a run around tasting of the new breed of Indian wine pushing the Rs 1200- 1400 MRP threshold. I have to say from the outset, any Indian wine company confident enough to push this 'imported wine' price point for a domestic product is setting themselves up to be judged well and truly by their peers. I will leave my more vitriolic assessment of the wines for another medium, needless to say that amongst the malaise I found a couple of very drinkable reds that at least showed what the potential of Nasik is if it is placed in the right hands.

The Reveilo Reserve Cabernet and Chateau D'Ori Reserve Shiraz were the two lights shining for India. The ample flavour and texture offered from both wines was a wonderful discovery, as were the depth of the palate and the overall drinkability of each. The additional benefit was the total lack of any of the more usual Band-Aid/medicinal tastes usually associated with Indian wine.

That done, and my whistle whet, I sashayed over to mingle with the crowd in the imported part of the pond. Team FineWinesnMore had all sorts of things going on. A 100% Torrontes named MTB that was all the rage. No better way to wash the mouth out than this amazing white fruit bomb of flavour. The new vintage of Sileni Estate Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, impressed me with its zesty freshness. A couple of reds worth putting up for mention were the Moulin de Gassac Syrah from France, a veritable smorgasbord of flavour and texture, and a super svelte Cabernet Sauvignon from Vina Arboleda of Chile. All around the same price as the new breed of Indian wines, but twice the journey.

Apart from the one or two that came just for a drink, it was of particular interest to note the amount of genuine regard shown towards imported wine. The commentary and questions aimed in all directions, and the subsequent excitement of the brands and wine styles being showcased for the day was reassuring to say the least.

Seems that my thoughts were the general consensus on this particular Sunday. The organizers of the event, in all of their infinite sober wisdom, voted Team FineWinesnMore as being the best exhibitor for the day... another feather in their broad cap!

This was a fabulous place to be!

Truck loads of great food and loud entertainment. Grape stomping and wine sniffing, ample sunshine and girls in uniform all washed down with liberal amounts of fine wine... I think I even saw a mermaid at the bottom of the pool! Perhaps this is another story for another time.

All in all, it is these sorts of events that take the wine industry forward and must, therefore, be everyone's responsibility to ensure they have life, function and most importantly longevity. Some days it pays to get out of bed early... You never know what you might be missing.

Treat for wine lovers, Sommelier India Wine Dinners

2010-03-03T06:11:47Z

Last week, wine lovers in Delhi had a special treat: a chance to taste wines from two great wine regions that could not be more different from each other, Hungary and Australia, arranged by Sommelier India WINE magazine for the Wine Society of Delhi and Peter Lehman Wines from the Barossa in association with Brindco. Jyoti Thottam South Asia Bureau Chief for Time Magazine, was present at both. Right: Winemaker Csaba Malatinszky

]]> The Wine Society gathered on 15 February at Claridge's to taste the complex wines of the Villany-Siklos wine region in southern Hungary, near Croatia. The winemaker, Csaba Malatinszky, spoke passionately about why he does as little as possible to get in the way of the grape. That means gentle crushing, hand-harvesting, no irrigation, careful management of the yield and canopy and proud use of Hungarian oak. We tasted five of the wines, beginning with a crisp rose as an aperitif and then a 2007 chardonnay with lots of citrus and mineral with the first course, a truffled fusilli. And then we moved on to the reds, which were almost as interesting to talk about as they were to drink. The 2007 "pinot bleu" is a blend of 30% pinot noir with kekfrankos, a grape native to Hungary. It had plummy black fruit, some earth and the complexity of a good zinfandel. Another blend, the 2006 "cabernoir" is just what it sounds like - cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and pinot noir. Never mind the unorthodox mixing of Bordeaux and Burgundy varietals--this is a wine that's very easy to like, with plenty of blackcurrant fruit, spice and (could it be?) some chocolate on the finish. Both these wines can age.

The wine Malatinszky seems most proud of, though, was the 2007 cabernet franc. There was no hint of the green bell pepper, vegetal taste that many people find so challenging. By the end of the evening, I understood why the New York Times wine writer, Eric Asimov, finds Hungarian wines--in this case dry whites--so fascinating, as he wrote in a recent column: [http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/10/dining/10pour.html?hpw]. Hungary's Malatinsky Kuria wines don't have an importer yet in India, but I have no doubt that will change very soon.

Unlike Hungary, Australia is already familiar to most wine lovers. So when Howard Duncan of Peter Lehmann vineyards came to the Imperial Hotel for a special tasting of shiraz on Feb. 16, it was like greeting an old friend. When I first started drinking wine, shiraz was my favorite, and it is still a familiar presence on my table. But this tasting was much more--a chance to see the range and complexity of wine from one region, the Barossa Valley, and experience the subtle expressions of its terroir.
Left:Peter Lehmann Eden Valley

Right: Peter Lehmann 2008 Barossa Shiraz

We started with a 2008 Riesling, a legacy of the Silesians who first settled the Barossa in the mid-19th century. It had the bright citrus of a the fine Rieslings of Germany, but with a little a more heft and a deliciously long finish. We moved on from there to several shiraz, all from Peter Lehmann's vineyards but each one slightly different. The 2008 Art Series Shiraz had bold black fruit, spice and leather. The 2007 Futures shiraz was smoother, with plum, prune and rich coffee. In the 2006 Eden Valley, there was a little more spice, and softer black cherry fruit. Notice a pattern here? Working backwards was like watching a child grow up - fun at every age but more interesting with each passing year. By the time we got to the 2004 wines -the Eight Songs and Stonewell shiraz, the table was getting more lively, and my notes were getting more sparse. But these are special wines--the same classic shiraz flavors of blue and black fruit, and sweet spice but so well integrated that they actually taste more rich than the younger ones.

And it was fascinating to taste them alongside the "mystery" wine Howard brought with him--a 2006 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, a 100% syrah from the Rhone Valley. It had a gorgeous black pepper note, and sat comfortably next to these wines from half a world away. Duncan pointed out that, in some ways, the phrase "New World" wines is misleading--winemakers in the Barossa Valley have been using many of the same grapes and methods that their ancestors brought with them from Europe, and have treasured those traditions for generations. He proved his point to me last week, and I invite you to see for yourself.

Bangalore raises a toast to wine dinners

2010-03-03T06:05:35Z

It's not often that wine lovers get a chance to taste some good wine with an excellent, paired dinner. When they do, it's a red letter day.

And Bangalore has been having more than its share of red letter days of late. Mid-February saw not just one, but three wine dinners happening over a two-day period. And judging by the sold-out responses at all, Bangalore is clearly developing a new fascination for classic wine and food paired dinners.

]]> The first was a dinner hosted at Toscano, the fine dining restaurant run by Chefs Jean Michel and Gautham, by the Wine Society of India. David Banford, director, WSI, and Myles Myall, wine educator, introduced the charming Victor Urrutia Ybarra, 5th generation winemaker from Rioja, Spain and his excellent CVNE Rioja Reserva 2006 at a four-course dinner which included specialities like slow-braised lamb shanks with caramelized shallots, turned carrots and pesto and grilled Canadian John Dory with fennel flavoured vegetables.

The second wine dinner had a distinctly Australian flavour. Ista Hotel, Bangalore, played host to Howard Duncan of Peter Lehmann wines and a group of wine lovers. The evening saw five paired courses which showcased wines from the Peter Lehmann range including the Peter Lehmann Barossa Riesling 2008 (paired with fresh water prawns served with garlic cream and warm blinis), pan-seared Basa/tomato and basil risotto with the Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Chardonnay 2008. Also served: the Peter Lehmann Barossa Clancy's Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007, the Barossa Shiraz 2008, and the most-appreciated Futures Shiraz 2007.

The next day, guests at Chef Abhijit Saha's new Mediterranean restaurant Fava had the opportunity to taste Australia's Bird in Hand wines from the Adelaide Hills, paired with a 4-course sit-down meal. Here, Justin Nugent, owner of Bird in Hand winery introduced his wines and the menu included unusual pairings like Turkish style chicken with pistachio ravioli with tomato basil sauce and the Bird in Hand Merlot 2008.

And Bangalore's wine lovers are loving every sip. For wine aficionado V Natarajan, the paired sit-down dinners mean two things: "I get a chance to taste new wines, plus I learn more about how the food-and-wine pairings are being done. And the pairings lately have been getting very interesting." At the Toscano-WSI dinner, Natarajan enjoyed the pairing of the pan fried Champagne & Wild Mushroom Risotto with grilled Vegetables and Parsley sauce with the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Lanciola 2008 and the CVNE Rioja Reserva 2006.

Clearly, with several talented chefs in the city and an array of new wines finding their way into town, pairing wine with food in Bangalore is rapidly becoming a match made in heaven!

Classifieds: Job Opening for WSI Brand Manager

2010-03-02T19:23:52Z

Are you creative dedicated and a self-starter? Are you interested to join a team of wine enthusiasts? The wine industry is India's fastest growing sector, and The Wine Society of India is India's largest direct marketing wine company. We are looking for an inspired Brand Manager to join our team and drive all on and off-line marketing activities to achieve demanding member acquisition targets!

]]> The qualified candidate will have: Completed University Education, MBA a plus 4-5 years Sales & Marketing in a Senior Position. Entrepreneurial flair - a must!

This position is located in South Mumbai. CTC is subject to experience and qualifications. Interested? Please send your CV with cover letter to: kris@thewinesocietyofindia.com. Trading since September 2006, The Wine Society of India currently has a customer database of 10,000+ 3000 active quarterly buyers.

If you would like to publish a classified advertisement on the SI blog, email info@indianwinemagazine.com

Cognac: the water of life

2010-02-25T16:25:21Z

Cognac (named after the town of Cognac in France), is savoured by connoisseurs as an 'after dinner' drink (particularly on cold winter evenings) and is often enjoyed with a good Cuban cigar, although it is now commonly drunk as an aperitif, as a mixer as well as by itself. And it must be said that the new rich in China, drink it at all times! writes Arjun Sawhny.
Right: Arjun Sawhny with his wife and Brand Ambassador, Chian Mei

]]> Our experience of distinguishing between the various grades of Cognac is limited to the names of the brands and perhaps the fineness of the taste, but the real distinction is in its after-taste: the longer the after-taste, the finer the Cognac.

Cognac is a brandy produced in the Cognac region in southwest France, close to the Atlantic and towards Bordeaux and the seaside town of La Rochelle - an area is known for its relatively temperate climate. Cognac, the town, is 450 km from Paris and can be reached by taking the TGV to Angoulême (two and a half hours) followed by a 40-minute drive.

My wife and I were guests of the House of Remy Martin and enjoyed the hospitality of an excellent hotel in an estate in the outskirts of the town and, needless to say, sampled its fine product. The major producers are all located around the town of Cognac.
Cognac has been produced for some 300 years and was sold for its medicinal properties even during the prohibition years in America, the bottles being imported with a Red Cross insignia.

The best Cognac is made from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne region (13,766 hectares) within the Greater Cognac region. Most of the Cognac we drink is produced from grapes in the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne areas, located at the heart of the Cognac region. A blend of Grande and Petite Champagne Cognacs, with at least half coming from Grande Champagne, is known as 'Fine Champagne Cognac'.

The term 'Champagne' is of Latin derivation and expresses the nature of the soil, which is chalky. Both Champagne and Cognac are produced from grapes grown in this chalky soil which ensures that the grapes are a little sour. Champagne is produced closer to Paris, barely 75 km east of the city. It is important to note that only brandy produced within the Cognac region can be called Cognac - all others are called Brandy. Similarly, only sparkling wine produced in Champagne can be called Champagne - all others are called sparkling wine.

The secret about Cognac is that it is produced as eaux-de-vie (a colourless fruit brandy), with the amber colour being derived later from the oak barrels in which it is aged. The oak wood itself is aged by being exposed to the elements (for up to three years) before it is converted into barrels.

To make Cognac, white wine is distilled in a copper pot and aged for at least four years (as for VSOP for instance) prior to being sold. The eau-de-vie, literally 'water of life', so derived continues to be aged or blended with eaux de vie of different years of production until it achieves the appropriate taste for which it is blended.

The main well-known grades are: VS (Very Special), VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), XO (Extra Old). There are also premium grades, which in the case of Remy Martin, is the Louis XIII (pronounced 'Louis threz'). The Louis XIII is produced entirely from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne; whereas the VSOP and XO are a blend of both Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne grapes while the VS is produced entirely from grapes in the Petite Champagne area.

The highlight of our visit was a Cognac tasting, with lunch at the owner's dining room at the Club and a visit to the Grande Champagne estates, followed by a tour of the owner's château where a taste of the Louis XIII from the 100-year-old Limousin oak barrels stored in the private estate will always be a cherished memory.

Louis XIII is produced from eaux de vie aged between 40 to 100 years by four generations of Cellar Masters. Because of the length of the ageing period, it is said that a Cellar Master never gets to taste his own Louis XIII eaux de vie although the taste has remained unchanged for centuries.

This Louis XIII eaux de vie has been appreciated by legends: Picasso, Coco Chanel, Winston Churchill, Charles de Gaulle, Bill Clinton, Larry Holmes, Oscar de La Hoya, Magic Johnson, Tom Cruise, Quentin Tarantino, Will Smith, among others. A 700 ml bottle retails for over US$ 2000 and, not surprisingly, China is the largest consumer. Though there is little doubt that we will get there soon, and that India will one day be the next largest consumer!

Just for Kicks, Why don't Indians drink more wines?

2010-02-21T14:20:18Z

My friend Reva - editor and publisher of Sommelier India, the country's first and, so far only, wine magazine - is puzzled. So, presumably, is Sharad Pawar who, according to popular report, owns acres and acres of grape-producing vineyards in the Nashik region. Jug Suraiya proceeds to answer the question himself with unfailing wit. Excerpted from the magazine.

]]> And so would have been Thomas Jefferson, who remarked that no people who drank wine and beer in preference to hard liquor would ever find themselves in dire need of applying en masse for membership to Alcoholics Anonymous.

All these very different people are - or in Jefferson's case, were - advocates of the civilised practice of enjoying the occasional glass of wine. To them, and many others like them, wine does not represent the demon drink. Far from it. Wine is a lyric in liquid form, music turned into moisture, a rhapsody played on the palate. So, how come, they ask, don't more Indians drink wine? Dry days, punitive excise duties and economic downturns notwithstanding, the sales of whisky, rum, vodka, gin and brandy show no signs of decline. On the contrary, they get higher and higher, as presumably do the customers of these products. But, by and large, wine remains a no-no among India's drinking glasses.

And the reason for this is simple: the idiom of wine is all wrong. When asked to 'nose' a wine you aren't meant to snort the stuff up your nostril, like snuff, but rather to inhale its 'bouquet', or the smell it gives off. Or when your host urges you admire the 'legs', don't gawp around looking for the young female in the micro-mini; the 'legs' are the streaks of wine which adhere to the side of the glass when you tilt it. A wine said to have an 'excellent finish' is not an invitation to grab the bottle by the neck and swig it down till empty in record time; 'finish' denotes the lingering aftertaste that the wine leaves in your mouth. 'Well- structured tannins' don't refer to generously endowed bikini-clad sunbathers bronzing themselves on a beach but to the acidic elements, which add complexity to the wine. And no, a 'complex vintage' is not a senior citizen in need of psychiatric care but a wine which has matured and gained subtle nuances of taste with age.

Read the rest of the column in the latest issue of Sommelier India WINE Magazine. Subscribe today if you aren't a subscriber already.

Wine & Beauty Pairing at The Olive, Mahalaxmi

2010-02-19T15:30:32Z

In line with its promise and commitment to create signature and innovative events involving wine and related lifestyle experiences, W3 - the revolutionary all women's club in India paired up with Lancome, the world's leading make-up and skincare brand, for an afternoon weaving the magic of 'Wine and Beauty', reports Sonal Holland. Pictured from left to right: Chandni Dhall, Dharti Desai, Gul Panag, Craig Wedge, Kiran Patil, Sonal Holland and Dinesh Dayal

]]> Women members of W3 including patron member Gul Panag, Kiran Patil and Sonal Holland, reporter of this event, assembled at the Olive Restaurant patio where a mouth watering Bellini served as a welcome drink. For those who preferred their wine straight- Zardetto Prosecco, a stunningly youthful and refreshing sparkling wine from Veneto, Italy was poured perfectly chilled. Dharti Desai and Chandni Dhall, the founding ladies behind W3 ensured that guests were engaged in a joyful conversation surrounding wine, beauty and wellbeing.

Women guests unravelled into the secrets of maintaining flawless, ageless and beautiful skin through their 30's, 40's and 50's as Lancome's Skincare Education Manager Sonali Gogia indulged members in an interactive discussion, whilst Lancome's make up expert Stafford Braganza shared valuable make-up techniques through a live demonstration on a rather spontaneous member guest. Skin diagnosis and consultation were also being offered to the ladies at the event.

Craig Wedge, Senior VP of Fine Wines n More and Consultant to W3 introduced the Prosecco as a terrific no-fuss Italian sparkler with pure citrus and stone-fruit flavours, and as one of the best 'value for money' buys in its category on the Indian market, aptly admitting to being part of an afternoon that not just celebrated the beauty of women, but also one that celebrated the beauty of this wine.

Avoiding Carpet Stains When Red Wine Spills

2010-02-19T14:40:32Z

We've been in settings where we've seen wine being spilt on a gorgeous Kashmiri carpet. Sometimes it may have even our own carpets as a dinner guest swayed a bit too fluidly to the music while holding his glass. Those carpet disasters are always bound to happen. The question is what can be done to limit their damage to your carpet. Here are some tips for red wine spills.

]]> Probably the best emergency response is to use white wine. When the red wine spills, pour white wine over it. It will neutralize the red wine and will make it easier to lift the color off the carpet. Pour the white wine over the stain and gently blot the liquid up with a thick towel. Do not rub the stain as it'll spread the color across the carpet. Once the majority of the stain is blotted up, take a clothing stain remover or preferably a carpet shampoo and clean the stain just as you would any regular dirt stain.

An alternative to using white wine to lift the colour off the carpet is to use club soda which should have the same effect. Salt also can help by soaking up the stain before the fabric has saturated. Keep in mind that when the wine spills, you must act immediately. Any delay will make it harder to remove the wine stains. Applying vinegar (mixed in water) before blotting can also help.

There is another remedy too albiet a less chemical one. Roll up your carpets before your dinner party! And if that's not an option then keep a steely eye on your guests as the night unfolds. Every time you find a tipsy guest on the verge of dancing with his wine glass in his hand, make your way over to him (or her for that matter) and offer to relieve him of his glass.

Two in the Bush or a Bird in Hand? An Aussie view

2010-02-18T20:41:15Z

In 1997, an unassuming young viticulturalist and winemaker, Andrew Nugent, chanced his arm in the emerging wine region of the Adelaide Hills and planted vineyards and an olive grove on 100 acres in Woodside, Australia. Andrew dreamed of becoming a wine maker since his school days. Today "Bird in Hand" is the largest privately owned Wine group of Australia and has innumerable awards to its credit.
Right: Sumedh Singh Mandla, Jackie Mattai, Suneeta Sodhi Kanga and Justine Nugent

]]> Not only are these wines strong in their own backyard but they also have their presence in 27 countries across the world. Recognizing their potential, Jackie Mattai, Director, Aspri Spirits Pvt Ltd decided to bring these wonderful wines for the growing wine lovers in India too. On 15th February 2010 select media were invited for a Tasting and to meet Justin Nugent,Director Marketing, of Bird in Hand wines.

Justin is confident that the wine will be a success in India. "We have built our reputation over the years in various international markets, as India is one of the fastest growing wine markets we wanted to start our brand with a company that can meet our stringent requirements and safeguard our brand's reputation." He further added "I am very sure that Aspri Spirits with their in dept knowledge of Indian wine market and large distribution network, will contribute towards making this brand great success in India".

According to Sumedh Singh Mandla, CEO, Aspri Spirits said, "Australia is blessed with a climate suitable to ripen the grapes to perfection and has some of the best wineries in the world. We at Aspri Spirits adhere to a high quality and best value while deciding the wines to be imported with our brand value, Bird in Hand is a perfect example of that." He further added "Bird in Hand offers great quality of wines with their superior technology and good climate. It has done exceptionally well in other countries and with our passion and dedication we are sure to make it a good success in all the key markets across India."

The grapes are grown in the mineral rich soils above the 1879 "Bird in Hand" gold mine which is where they get their unusual name from. The Bird in Hand range is released every vintage though, as you would expect with premium wines of quality and substance, release is limited. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sparkling Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet, Shiraz and Riesling are available in packages of six.

They also have a Vineyard near "Two in the Bush" Gold mine across the estate. Two in the Bush range include popular, drink now style wines. Comprising Merlot/Cabernet, Shiraz, Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay, the Two in the Bush range is released every vintage. These premium wines are offered in cases of 12 - outstanding wines at outstanding value.

All in all the property includes 100 acres of vineyards & olive grove, cellar door, wine & olive production facilities and the picturesque family residence. Bird in Hand Pinot Noir Sparkling was served at the Wimbledon tournament more than once and a few of their wines have won innumerable awards.

Aspri Spirits has launched five wines from the Bird in Hand range:

The Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir 2008 is a 100% Pinot Noir. It gets a soft salmon rose colour comes from the one hour contact it has with the skin. This voluptuous sparkling wine is bright and clean and makes the perfect pre dinner or celebratory drink.

Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Semillon Sauvignon 2008 is a classic Bordeaux blend. The rounded tropical characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc are softened with the Semillon which makes it a good food wine.

Bird in Hand Shiraz 2008 exhibits intense aromas of blackberry, cinnamon and mocha. It is a highly awarded wine that is low in alcohol, fruity in style, well balanced and elegant.

Likewise the Bird in Hand Two in the Bush Shiraz 2008 has a rich fruity palate, supple textures and a long persistent finish.

The Bird in Hand Merlot 2008 is a complex wine which is well structures and has mild silky tannins. The richness and vibrancy of the fruit ensures a long and persistent finish. This wine was awarded the - "Merlot of the Year" award by Winestate Magazine in 2006.

Priced between Rs. 2,090/- to Rs. 3,125/- in Mumbai the wines are solely distributed by Aspri Spirits in over 10 cities in India and are available at all leading Hotels, restaurants and select retail outlets across the country

Madrid Fusion food and wine fair, Spanish wines

2010-02-18T20:12:02Z

Spain is a wonderful country with so much to recommend it, from its people (who don't always speak English) to its incredible, avant-garde cuisine. Indeed, it is home to many of the founders of molecular gastronomy - chefs like Juan Mari Arzak and Ferran Adriá. And of course, there's the wine. Harshal Shah reports.

]]> Many of us - especially here in India - associate Spanish wine with two main stereotypes: Rioja and Jerez (or Sherry). There is no doubt that the reputation of Spanish wine in India has been created by the availability of soft, dusty, easy-to-drink Riojas (largely thanks to Torres wines), and Tio Pepe Fino sherry, the gormless, supermarket-standard dry fortified wine that should have no place on any restaurant's wine list.

There is, however, much more to Spanish wine than Rioja and sherry. There are wonderful examples of both styles as well, but one of my predictions for 2010 is that other Spanish reds will land in India and make a big splash doing so. These styles, from regions such as Ribera del Duero, Navarra, Jumilla and Priorato, are as diverse as the terroir from where they originate and all really delicious and wonderful to taste.

I was fortunate enough to be on a panel of judges for a competition of Spanish wines at the recently concluded (and VERY impressive) Madrid Fusion food and wine fair in Spain last month. The fair is an incredible showcase of the absolute best talent coming out of Spanish kitchens, and of course the wine makers are looking to impress everybody with their wines. For those in the food or wine trade, I would absolutely recommend attending it next year.

In addition to the wine competition, there were a series of classes on different regional wines of Spain. Their aim was to show the diversity of wine styles and wine regionality that exists in the Spanish wine industry today. The seminar on the Garnacha (Grenache) grape showed just how well the grape can be grown in the region of Aragón, with its 6 appellations (called D.O.'s). The wines were fruity (blackcurrants), showing a little brown spice (nutmeg, anise) with chalky tannins and refreshing length. Tempranillo (called by many names, including Tinto del País) appears to thrive in the Ribera del Duero DO. The wines are impressive. Very impressive, actually with wonderful aromas of raspberries and chocolate. The good producers in the region appear to be able to extract firm yet fine, elegant tannins from the grapes, so the resulting wines not only taste good, but their flavours hang around on the palate for ages after the wine is gone! And producers in Navarra are making very New World styles of wine, using Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

These wines can hardly be described as 'Bordeaux' in nature, but rather resemble warm Californian reds, and indeed, the debate at the Navarra seminar raged on about the true 'identity' of these wines: should they be more 'Spanish' or continue to cater towards an 'American' taste. There did not appear to be any resolution to the arguments!

Thienpont regales Wine Society of India members

2010-02-17T09:46:30Z

Sixteen of the Wine Society's luckiest members had the privilege of dining with Bernadette Thienpont - the maker of our Bordeaux Private Label - this past week at Valhalla Restaurant, Churchgate (Mumbai), writes Piyush Gadkari. The Wine Circle dinner - hosted by WSI Wine buyer and educator Myles Mayall - kicked off with some delicious Piper Heidsieck Champagne, a welcome drink for arriving members. Left: Bernadette Thienpont

]]> After everybody trickled in and all the Champagne was spent, proceedings moved to Valhalla's private dining room, elegantly set up in a discreet corner of the restaurant.

The first course of the night was paired with the Mandrarossa Fiano 2008, which despite being a gem of a Sicilian White, was relatively unknown, and required a short introduction by Myles. It was served well before the dish it was meant to be paired with, and set a cheery atmosphere that lasted well through the rest of the week!

We were halfway through the second wine of the evening when the Duck and Chicken Liver Terrine arrived. It was intense and creamy, with a tart prune sauce acting as the perfect foil. So outstanding was our first dish that conversation ground to a halt for almost three minutes, as everybody focused solely on the starter in front of them.

Within seconds of our next course arriving, we realized we were in the hands of a master craftsman. Even more remarkable was how well the Blue-shelled Crab Salad paired with the Wine Society's Steven Spurrier Selection Bordeaux 2007, poured slightly earlier than expected.

Bernadette Thienpont - its producer - stood up to speak passionately about Terra Burdigala, her private venture away from her family's own interests in Bordeaux. Terra Burdigala makes our Steven Spurrier Selection Bordeaux Private Label, a blend of 70% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Franc, which that night, was meaty on the nose, with slight tannin on its juicy palate.

The Roasted Seabass with Sweet Potato Gnocchi that followed was exceptional enough for some of our members to ask to meet the Chef, midway through the course! Chef Shantanu described how he set about creating the Menu, and said something that I found to be quite revelatory: most Indian cuisine tends to focus on the flavours of the spices and the curry of the dish. European cuisine, on the other hand, will focus more on the flavour of the meat. A single flake of Chef Shantanu's seabass would've told you that he clearly belonged to the European school of thought.

The night culminated with a pouring of the mystery wine, which had been allowed to mellow in a decanter on the sideboard, all this while. Mme Thienpont had brought with her three bottles from her family's rather famous estate, Vieux Chateaux Certan! The Thienponts have owned the hallowed property for close to a hundred years, and are producing some of the finest Bordeaux ever. The 2004 vintage that was passed around was a bit young, but still an utter treat!

The evening wound down with a delicious cheese platter, after which Mme Thienpont had to rush to catch her flight back to Bordeaux (via Paris), where she will continue to make excellent wine, some of which we hope to showcase to you later this year!

For more information about The Wine Society of India and its events, visit www.thewinesocietyofindia.com.

Raising the Bar at The Tasting Room, Mumbai

2010-02-17T06:53:24Z

Interesting conversation and commendable Australian wines come together at The Tasting Room in Mumbai on 11 February 2010. De Bortoli Wines from the Yarra Valley, in the country since four years now, organized the tasting in collaboration with FineWinesnMore. Vivacious Nikki Palun, Marketing & Trade Manager for Asia Pacific from De Bortoli Wines tells Naina Hiranandani what makes her wines so special.
Pictured left: Senior VP FineWinesnMore, Craig Wedge, CEO FineWinesnMore, Dharti Desai and Nikki Palun

]]> Next in line is the Willowglen Semillon Chardonnay 2008. With a pale straw colour and wonderful spring aromas, Nikki says, "The grapes are of better quality since they're multi-regional. So this one is for easy drinking, but at the same time, we deliver a value-for-money. It has the layering, texturing and a little more complexity." A result is the pleasant dominance of Chardonnay and oak saturation taste. Nikki also reveals that this wine was served to the Queen at Buckingham Palace. Its drier, citrus character gives a better finish and has a storage capacity up to two years, "but, it's too good to age," laughs Nikki. We agree.

The Willowglen Shiraz 2009 has soft tannins but is not the best Australian Shiraz you've tasted. The Willowglen Cabernet-Merlot 2008 (75% Cabernet and 25% Merlot) is ripe and strong, with gracious hints of berries and strong soil character - typical of the Riverina region. In fact, the Cabernet is sourced from Koonawarra and the Merlot - from the King Valley. It's a tough proposition but the winery ensures utmost care with temperature control during transportation, and Nikki assures us that this extra cost is not passed onto the consumer. De Bortoli has made a step beyond biodynamic wine, adopting a more holistic approach to winemaking, known as biological farming.

Much to the delight of the Indian consumer, their wines are priced around the Rs. 1,000 mark - an affordable and sensible prospect that is sure to cause a stir amongst premium Indian wines in that range. As Craig puts it, "our job is to raise the bar."

De Bortoli Wines are available in retail stores and hospitality outlets in New Delhi (from Rs. 950 to Rs. 2,000) and Mumbai (Rs. 1,000 to Rs. 2,000).

Sulafest 2010 - A Special Celebration

2010-02-15T14:47:47Z

Another year and another harvest season for most wine producers in India with one exception. 2010 marks the 10th anniversary of Sula Vineyards and its putting on a special Sulafest 2010 celebration on February 20th, 2010 in Nasik, Maharasthra. Don't miss it!

]]> To be held at the Sula Vineyards Amphi and starting at 12:30pm and going on till midnight, the day will include musical performances, grape stomping, a food fiesta, a caricature artist, a stand up comedian, a tarot reader, a tattoo artist and much more. Musical performances will be headlines by Jalabee Cartel who's one of the most success live electronic acts from New Delhi. You can hear a sampling of his music on Lala.com. He is credited with putting India on the global electronic dance music map.

Also performing will be Something Relevant, Shkabang, Ankur & The Ghalat Family and Teddy Boy Kill which is known for its album The Exit Plan among others. Each artist has his or her own claim to fame. Tickets for the event are available at www.bookmyshow.com. For stall booking enquiries, dial +91-9004608547. For directions to Sula Vineyards in Nasik, click here.

Sula completes its tenth anniversary with plans to open five wine bars by the end of 2010 and boutique restaurant by 2012. Back in 2000 Sula Vineyards sold 50,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc as it entered the market.

Brunch with a twist. A Mumbai Wine Classroom

2010-02-15T09:15:56Z

Sunday! Traditionally it's a day of rest and recreation, where one can, without any degree of guilt or concern, sequester themselves as far away from the trials and tribulations often associated with the machinations of life in Mumbai town. Trust the pioneering spirit of the team from W3 to throw a spanner in the works. A brunch centered around a wine tutorial?? Now there is a new level of wine entertainment to be admired....
Left: Dharti Desai Founder W3, Nikki Palun of De Bortoli Wines, Chandni Dhall Partner W3

]]> The 'classroom', Valhalla, that uber cool venue in Churchgate, was suitably transformed into a classroom cum vineyard where the focus, a blend of great food, wonderful wine, with just enough interaction, made for a very entertaining and rewarding way to enjoy the day. Much apart from the impending fun and frivolity that has become a benchmark with W3 events, Dharti Desai's nominated charity of 'Save the Children' also benefited with a 10% donation from the afternoon.

The Masters of Brunch time ceremony, Craig W.Wedge, international wine consultant W3, and Nikki Palun of De Bortoli Vineyards, did a fabulous job leading the assembled guests through a five chapter interactive presentation highlighting the life processes of wine.

The focal point for the afternoon, De Bortoli; 3 generations of Australian winemaking, was seen from the perspective of the vineyard to the glass.

Six wines from the De Bortoli range, newly released in India with FineWinesnMore, were presented as an accompaniment to the delicious four course menu from the team at Valhalla. As is always the case, Sundays tend to meander on at a snail's pace and this particular day was no exception. The lackadaisical musings of a small group of budding wine aficionados set the tone for the duration of the event. This was not about cramming the mind spaces of the assembled with a barrage of vinous gobbledygook. This was a Sunday, heaven forbid! Between mouthfuls of delicious culinary treats washed down with liberal amounts of good Aussie booze, the task was easy. Tell a simple story of wine from the family perspective of De Bortoli, and have a little fun along the way. And that's exactly what they did.

The first wine in the glass was the Willowglen Semillon Chardonnay. Taste buds can always do with an early morning wake-up call and this was the best way to do it. This fresh, zesty mouthful of flavour and texture was a wonderful way to get everyone's attention, and as accompaniment to the first course soup, it turned out to be a fabulous partnering.

The Accomplice Chardonnay and the Windy Peak Classic Dry White were next.
The Accomplice Chardonnay offered a little more weight in the mouth with ripe fruit flavours, a delicious mid palate creaminess and a gently winding finish. A Moorish little thing if I must say! The Windy Peak, a super swish blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon was an absolute joy to drink. Whilst both had opposing personalities, the melding of flavours and textures of both with the second course salad, proved to be a favourite of those doing the eating and drinking.

The reds started in the same fashion. The first red in the glass with the main course was the first release Windy Peak Nouveau Shiraz. The particular wine, modeled around the carbonic maceration practices of wines from the Beaujolais, offered a delightfully approachable alternative to the usually rich, unctuous styles favoured by Aussie Shiraz aficionados. Whilst deliciously light and fresh with juicy wild forest berry fruit flavours and a touch of gentle spice, the wine finished with enough texture and weight to appease the most serious of wine drinkers.

As a post main course cleanser, the Accomplice Shiraz and Willowglen Cabernet Merlot, enabled the tutored to sit back and relax to the antics and anecdotes of Craig and Nikki as they entertained the last chapter of the afternoon aptly named, 'That was good, can I have another'.

Both wines delivered what we have come to expect from good quality Australian wines; big mouthfuls of juicy flavour with enough stylistic twists and turns along the way to make them stand out from the crowd and please all in attendance.

It was a difficult task to have anyone put there glasses down long enough to eat the dessert, let alone stop them from starting the wines from the beginning all over again.
In summary, it is hats off to the team at W3, Wine Women Wit for raising the bar and demystifying wines in such a pleasurable and entertaining manner. Furnishing the guests with a special certificate of participation was the last order for the day. A memento for a job well done for this lazy Sunday!

Bravo
Johnny B. Pinot

Sitting Down with Nine Hills, SIWC Winning Wine

2010-02-14T19:56:45Z

There's no better way to taste and judge medal-winning wine than to sit down in exclusive company over a 4-course gourmet meal paired with the wines. So when 50 wine lovers got the invitation to be present to try out the Nine Hills range of Reserve wines by Pernod-Ricard and have the first official tasting of the SIWC Gold medal winning Nine Hills Reserve Shiraz, few could refuse the offer.

]]> The venue was the Mysore Hall of ITC The Royal Gardenia, the newest luxury hotel in Bangalore. The menu, in keeping with Executive Chef's Madhu Krishnan's considerable abilities, combined the traditonal with the unusual.

As an additional bonus, Reims-based Master Winemaker Jean-Manuel Jacquinot was also present, and introduced his 'babies' to the select crowd, who started the evening with casual conversation and chilled glasses of the Nine Hills Shiraz Rosé.

At the dinner, the Nine Hills Chenin Blanc 2008, lightly floral and fruity, balanced out the rich but delicious white asparagus and summer Truffle Souffle, while the Indian Ocean halibut cloaked with Lime Gremolata and the gold corn Madeleine studded with peppercorn paired well with the refreshingly crisp Nine Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2008 with its fruity notes of pineapple and citrus.

The third course, artichoke confit and Boletus ravioli and Guinea Fowl and slow-poached Pecan Ravioli was paired with the full-bodied award-winning Nine Hills Reserve Shiraz 2008. This was followed by oven roasted Eggplant with red onion confit and slow braised Jaipur lamb shank with Fregola Sarda and winter turnip Spezzatino served with the Nine Hills Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008.

The grand finale, a trio of delicious desserts featuring a Rhubarb and Strawberry Streusel, nutmeg Kahlua Pot de Creme and home churned Lavender and Hibiscus ice cream won accolades from the guests.

Jacquinot, dashing off to the airport to catch his flight back home, was treated to a round of applause from the gathering. Darius Chichgur, Manager - Wine (West) thanked the guests and received prolonged ovation for a wonderfully elegant and special evening.

For a list of all the Sommelier India Wine Competition winners, visit http://www.siwc.in/results.html or the Wines to Buy section.

Getting the facts straight. SIWC & IWC Gold Winners

2010-02-08T18:26:03Z

Sometimes our wine industry is done a disservice by how it is represented in the media - whether that be the mainstream or the trade press. Recently in a trade consultant's newsletter, the Sommelier India Wine Competition results were misinterpreted and did an injustice to the winners. The record needs to be set straight as sloppy journalism drives uninformed opinions. Shiv Singh takes umbrage at the report.

]]> Firstly, the report stated that a "deluge" of medals were awarded at the Sommelier India Wine Competition in relation to the India Wine Challenge. The report also stated that an SIWC gold medal was not a true gold and the equivalent of a silver at another competition. Here are the facts.

The Sommelier India Wine Competition was held in November 2009. 415 wines were entered of which only 18 got gold medals representing 4.3% of the wines entered. In the IWC, 218 wines were entered of which 10 were awarded gold representing 4.5% of all wines entered. In other words, there were more gold medals awarded at the IWC relative to the SIWC! To use the language of the report, the SIWC Gold was more of a true gold!

64 Silver medals were awarded at the SIWC representing 15% of the wines entered versus 8 at the IWC representing 3.6%. Yes, in this case more silvers were awarded at the SIWC. 23% of the SIWC wines were awarded bronze medals while 16% of IWC winners received the same. Here the difference between the two is not significant and hardly bears discussion. 11% of the SIWC wines were commended while 17% of the IWC wines got Seals of Approval (the equivalent). Here the tables were turned with more IWC awards than those at the SIWC.

In all, 55% of the SIWC wines were awarded medals whereas 42% of IWC wines won recognition. Moreover, if one were to look at the percentages, the fact remains that an SIWC Gold medal was more exclusive.

To conclude, therefore that there was a deluge of medals awarded at the SIWC in comparison to the IWC is incorrect, and reflects adversely on the competition, the judges and the participants.

What's even more interesting to note is that fewer medals were awarded at the SIWC than at the Decanter World Wine Awards where 67% of the 10,000 wines entered won medals (Steven Spurrier was also chairman of that competition). Large wine competitions do invariably have more winners as better wines are entered.

Here's another proof point around that - Two years ago when the IWC had 501 wines entered (versus 218 this year) 63% of the wines got medals, more than at the SIWC. Is this trade consultant's newsletter implying that those medals were too generous and now things are different?

Secondly, the report and the subsequent comments implied that there was no home grown competition in India. Not true. SIWC is precisely that. Fourteen of the judges at the Sommelier India Wine Competition were Indian and the four that weren't are professionals working in the Indian wine industry. This was indeed an Indian competition judged by professionals who understand the Indian palate. It was also the competition with more Indian wines entered than in any competition before. The majority owner of the competition is the Sommelier India WINE magazine which is wholly Indian too. So yes, India does have a home grown competition.

Thirdly, the report also implied that the SIWC needed to tie up with a trade show to get more attention and exposure. While it can be helpful to tie up with trade shows and the SIWC has been asked by many to do so, the SIWC hasn't felt the need for it at present.

By running an independent competition, the Sommelier India Wine Competition has succeeded in creating ample buzz and this is likely to continue. In fact, the competition and its winners have gotten more mainstream press attention than any other wine competition before and arguably more than the wine trade shows too.

The competition is also getting year round exposure in the Sommelier India WINE magazine and the accompanying website which reaches thousands and thousands of actual wine drinkers in India. The special tastings held by the Bangalore Wine Club, the Madras Wine Club and multiple tastings organized by The Wine Society of India broadens further the exposure that the winning wines get.

In a nutshell, sloppy journalism that presents opinions at the expense of factual reporting is bad for the industry, bad for the winemakers and most importantly bad for the Indian wine consumer. I hope we won't see this in the future.

The Sommelier India Wine Competition and the India Wine Challenge are both respectable events, each with their own place in the Indian wine scene. And it is not the place for newsletters to trash one over the other unfairly.

Such insidious comparisons are not constructive (and I don't enjoy doing this, but I felt I had to clarify the facts). So let's go back to celebrating the winners - you can find them all in our Wines to Buy section.

Did you know the history behind toasting?

2010-02-08T18:22:06Z

In ancient Greece, a dinner host would take the first sip of wine to assure guests the wine was not poisoned, hence the phrase "drinking to one's health." And "toasting" specifically started in ancient Rome when the Romans continued the Greek tradition but localized it by dropping a piece of toasted bread into each wine glass to temper undesirable tastes or excessive acidity. Here's some toasting etiquette for the modern world.

]]> Keep these tips in mind and you'll soon become a toastmaster!

1. Unless you're having a small gathering, it is always better to stand up for the toast
2. At a gathering none should offer to toast the guest of honor until the host has done so
3. Guests may signal their approval of a toast with "hear hear"
4. The person who is being honored should neither stand nor drink
5. Only after the toast is complete should he/she rise to thank everyone
6. Putting one's drink down midway implies that you don't agree with the toast
7. The same goes if you choose not to sip after the toast is complete

Any other tips you feel should be kept in mind during a toasting?

Bangaloreans taste boutique wines from Germany

2010-02-08T11:54:36Z

A select guest list of wine lovers in Bangalore enjoyed a Riesling treat recently with a tasting of nine wines from MO-RHE-NA Wine Exports from Germany, led by well-known winemaker Ulrich Langguth and his son, Patrick, writes Ruma Singh. Guests savoured every sip of a remarkable selection of wines from boutique German wineries. Pictured above, from left to right: Anna Minocher, Patrick Langguth, Ruma Singh, Ulrich Langguth and Rishad Minocher

]]> The venue was the new eatery, "Curry with a K", St Marks Hotel, where the chef had put together some interesting pairings of Indian food with the Riesling-dominated wine list. The snacks ranged from fish tikkas to tandoori prawns and an innovative pani puri with grape juice to balance the Indian spice.

Among the wines tasted were an unusual Spatburgunder 2005 Pinot Noir and a delightful late harvest Spatlese from Rheingau's Hans Lang estate along with the elegant, perfectly balanced Grand Cru Kabinett Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling 2003 from Mosel, and two different icewines: a 1998 Riesling from Losen-Bockstanzor of Mosel and an unusual Kerner Eiswein 2003 from Schick in Rheinhessen. Langguth also presented three wines from his own portfolio. In addition to the Kabinett there was a dry Riesling Qualitatswein Traben Gaispfad 2008, and a Riesling Fern Qualitiatswein 2006.

Speaking as the tasting proceeded, Ulrich Langguth described how the soil and location defined the fineness of the wines and pointed out their low alcohol content. "You can see, alcohol doesn't account for quality," he said of the wines which had no more than 9 to 11% alcohol. Rieslings are now grown in several parts of the world, but the Rieslings from Germany ("the cream of all white wines, we believe") are a cut above because of the long history of wine growing in regions like the Mosel, plus the remarkable soil.

It is wrong to believe all Rieslings were sweet -- the variety tasted that evening ranged from dry, off-dry, to semi-sweet and sweet. The special icewines ("very different from the ones from Canada") were exceptional, so understandably the prices would be high. "They can last over 50 years if the cork would allow it," he said.

The tasting was courtesy Fine Wines n More and co-ordinated by Maureen Kerleau. Many of the wines are available at retail and in star hotels in Mumbai, and some will be shortly launched in Bangalore. This was a rare opportunity for wines lovers to sample some of the best Germany has to offer.

Indian wine - Miazma, more mesmerising than misty

2010-02-07T16:34:53Z

"In the old days royalty travelled long distances with great fanfare and style. We would like to carry on the tradition and invite you to a luxurious afternoon in Mandwa (Alibaug). Ocean Blue will whisk you across the harbor to Ccaza Ccomodore for a lavish Miazma BBQ brunch." Sommelier India's Suneeta Sodhi Kanga found this invitation irresistible

]]> When I received this invitation in my mail, understandably my excitement was palpable. The lavish Sunday afternoon not only matched my expectations but by far exceeded them. Indian wine lovers, past, present and future, please raise a toast to Miazma and its world class wine which owner and wine producer, Karan Jain, founder of Globus Wines (the company that launched Miazma Fine Wine in 2009) has created for the discerning wine connoisseur. This brunch kickstarts the first of a series of events that he has planned for 2010.

A speed boat to take you away from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai to a serene, sprawling villa in Mandwa on a sunny yet pleasant Sunday was a brilliant start to the relaxed afternoon. Sheiilu Lehr, the charming sales Director of Ocean Blue was personally taking care of all the guests. The guests relaxed in the salon and flybridge of the boat while the captain maneuvered the yacht into the high seas.

The ambience at Ccaza Ccomodore, Alibaug, was lazy, laid-back, Mediterranean. The subtle smell of BBQ and grassy lawns beneath your feet lent a quaint country feel to the pleasant setting. Ccaza Ccomodore is a beautiful and luxurious Villa. Dipti Mongia, the owner along with husband, Nitin, receive guests at the villa in true style. She proudly showed me around the house, garden, swimming pool and spacious verandas and sit-outs. Dipti had also arranged for Thai foot massages for guests as a surprise treat. Good music, warm weather and a glass of Miazma wine swirling in your hand was heady, to say the least.

A perfectly chilled Miazma Chenin Blanc 2006 was the first wine we sipped. A well synchronized wine with a pleasant bouquet and a bracing palate, the wine was refreshing and friendly in the mouth with a light body, subtle fruits and balanced alcohol. The fruit balanced the acidity and the sweet notes in the aroma made it an easy pairing with the delectable hors d'oeuvres that Nitin had prepared for us. The lamb hummus pita pockets and cilantro chicken were especially good.

To add further to our bliss came the Miazma Chenin Reserve 2006. The fruity and heady flavours of this remarkable wine orchestrated with the taste buds to transport us to a far away fairyland.

The Miazma Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 was paired with the delightful fare on the barbeque grill. The buffet included risotto stuffed peppers, lemon pepper soy fish, smoked chicken franks, mushroom quiche and ham and cheese frittatas. The Cabernet Sauvignon showed spicy aromas and layers of complexity with blackberry, plum and bell pepper. Vanilla, coffee and butterscotch on the palate come from the 12 months of oak ageing. Backed by firm tannins, dark chocolate and coffee lingered in the finish. The wine was approachable, round, and concentrated.

Cookies and ice-cream were made all the more memorable with the accompaniment of the Miazma Red Reserve 2006. A Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, this wine offered seductive aromas of ripe raspberry, plum and dark chocolate. It was particularly smooth on the palate with the smoky richness of spices, pepper and berries. Very drinkable with a long elegant finish. Unless controlled, one could run the risk of a glass too many with this one.

All of the 40-odd guests seemed to have enjoyed this perfectly laid out, delightfully lavish brunch. Miazma wine is influenced by the international style of winemaking using estate grown grapes, but as the 'terroir' is Indian, the expression of the wine is local. The labels on the bottles are as stunning as the contents and a great flag-bearer for Indian wines - the logo has a maharaja travelling on elephant back.

The name of the wine, meaning mist or haze, comes from their vineyards in the hills of Sangli. "Early morning it's quite misty and cool at our vineyards. I wanted to capture the essence of the place in the name itself," says Karan Jain.

Whispers that Miazma has a few more aces up its sleeve caught my ears. Karan is determined to seduce India with his forthcoming launches this year when he uncorks his new creations.

The wines are now selectively available for the discerning wine enthusiast. Priced at Rs 1,200 to Rs 1,500 per bottle, Miazma is one of the most expensive premium wines produced in India.While priced higher than most Indian wines, their offering comes with the promise of appealing to a wine aficionado or turning you into one!

Pichon Lalande shines at Sommelier India Wine Dinner

2010-02-07T05:33:05Z

Wine tastings in themselves can be, after a tipping point, a heady experience. Swirl, sniff, sip and smile, reports Rahoul B Singh. The much practiced routine is followed either by an inconsequential opinion or a much valued insight even in the Indian wine scene. Left to right: Gildas d'Ollone of Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Reva K Singh of Sommelier India WINE magazine, Aman Dhall of Brindco and Al Portney of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates

]]> A fellow 'whiner' laughs, and you reach out for the next round of canapés. Soon the evening runs dry and is considered well spent.

Without either food or congenial company, wine in itself can be a fairly solitary and cerebral experience, yet when all three ingredients come together it's sheer magic! And that's what it was at the last Sommelier India Wine Dinner (SIWD).

Held at the Hotel Imperial's exclusive restaurant 1911 in New Delhi on January the 25th, the private affair was a combination of fine wines from Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and a specially crafted menu by the restaurant's talented chefs. We all know about food and wine pairing and the great disclaimer, if it works for your palate then it's a good match, but seldom does it result in a truly gastronomic experience. But on this occasion at 1911, with superb wines and food, this is exactly what it was.

The early part of evening followed a cocktail format. Nursing flutes of Champagne Louis Roederer the twenty something guests mingled with each other, conversation lubricated with fine champagne. Yes, there was wine talk, not the terribly technical sort that discusses the intricacies of winemaking but fascinating stuff about the future of Bordeaux wine estates, given the effects of inheritance and inter-marriages with shifting alliances. Land holdings in France, especially at some of the older estates, can be as complex as they are here in our country!

The format of the dinner allowed guests to re-connect with old acquaintances while also enabling one to meet new people. Round tables with their starched tablecloths were arranged to seat between four and six and allowed for plenty of flexibility when it came to choosing who you would like at your table.

Aman Dhall and Gildas d'Ollone with the Director F&B, SS Thakur and Chef Jan and staff of the Imperial Hotel at 1911

The restaurant with its collection of antique lithographs depicting the historical events of 1911 added to the pleasing ambience. I was seated with Ghulam Naqshband, the founder of India's first wine club and someone who had tasted wines from this particular estate when in France in the 1950s (if I remember correctly) and Lalit Anand, an anglophile who divides his time between the UK and India. We jotted down our favourites among the wines.

Top of the pops was Château Pichon Lalande 2000 which was served towards the end of the meal when we had Déclinaison d'Agenau d'Australie or Australian lamb, shallots and couscous in our plates as well Napoleon d'Aubergine, Shiitake et Taleggio, that is, crisp Aubergine slices, Shiitake mushroom duxelles, Taleggio cheese and Rucola salad, lightly coated with Porcini perfumed olive oil.

The wine even though relatively young compared to some of the other offerings was superb. Purple in colour, medium bodied, amiable tannins, a firm bouquet with a few undecipherable aromas but unmistakably smoky oak. It was friendly, approachable and palatable (even for some of the whisky drinkers in the room).

The wines included a Château Bernadotte 2001, Château Pichon Lalande 1988 and 1996 along with a Reserve de la Comtesse 2003 and 2004. A couple of the wines were decanted while the others had been opened and allowed to breathe before serving. They were all excellent. Our table, which had the distinction of not only representing a random sampling of the Indian consumer, but also that of having each diner born in a different decade!

Decibel levels did rise as a lively discussion on an adjoining table was brewing - are there really two categories of wine consumers? In which category would the average Indian wine drinker fall? Are we developing into a market of wine drinkers or wine thinkers?!

With an industry still in its infancy, the Indian wine enthusiast has been fortunate in having been introduced to imported wines that are highly rated, a fact that, in spite of prohibitive prices, has helped many of us to develop a discerning palate.

The confluence of the wines from Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande introduced by visiting managing director of the Château, Mr Gildas d'Ollone, and the excellent food prepared by Chef Jan and his team at 1911, culminated in a truly gastronomic experience that I am sure will continue to be enjoyed greatly on other occasions.

For more information on availabilty and prices of the featured wines, contact Brindco Sales Ltd, tel: +91 11 4064 6666, email: contact@brindco.com.

"The knights of Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt"

2010-02-07T05:17:20Z

The knights of von Kesselstatt may have first arrived in the region as early as the 14th century, but this time around we had double Michelin star chef, Gerhard Gartner and his wife Annegret Reh-Gartner, who together run one of the most prestigious Riesling estates in the Mosel, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, visit us in India. Suneeta Sodhi Kanga attended a wine dinner in Mumbai which showcased their excellent culinary and winemaking skills. Pictured are Chef Gerhartd Gartner, Suneeta Kanga of Sommelier India, Annegret Reh-Gartner and Chef Enrico Luise.

]]> Italian Chef, Enrico Luise, helped prepare the delectable four-course meal in the impressive open kitchen of Fratelli Fresh, a premium Italian restaurant at the Renaissance Mumbai Hotel and Convention Center, Powai, in Mumbai. Presenting the historic estate's beautiful Riesling wines,this elegant Winemaker's Dinner was hosted by Vishal and Ashu Kadakia, of The Wine Park, on the eve of Indian Republic Day.

As a first course, we were served the best Scallops with Caviar Cream that I have ever tasted. Annegret explained that the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2007 Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, that we sipped along with it, could be described as 'the cheerful one' - its fragrance was so pleasing. Aromas of red berries like raspberries, but also ripe little grapes, passion fruit and peach literally jump out of the glass. On the palate, it was very elegant and lively with a fine acidity that ensured a 'kick' and that certain 'something' - a mouthful of pleasure like being on the wings of a butterfly!

Lobster Chowder was served at just the right temperature in a Martini glass with seasonal vegetables, the presentation making it even more interesting. This was followed by leeks accompanied with two types of sauces, a Béarnaise and a Choron. The RK Riesling 2007 (which was given an easy name for the convenience of their American importer) was the perfect match.

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt introduced the RK Riesling to mark its 650th anniversary in 1999. A cuvée of 100% Riesling grapes which are estate grown and come from the very steep slopes of the vineyards along the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, it is an easy drinking wine with a wonderful harmony between fruits like white peach, melon and grapefruit and vivid minerals. The palate is juicy with pleasant acidity, underlined by quite a good portion of slate.

The main course of Chicken Breast cooked in a wine sauce doubled the pleasure of the 2007 Scharzhofberger Grosses Gewächs Troken from Saar, which is one of the coldest wine regions after Canada. A dry wine, it had a very pleasant concentration and richness, underlined by fully matured acidity. This 'nobleman' among wines originates from grapes from 80-year-old ungrafted vines in the heart of the Scharzhofberg site.

Orchestrating the grand finale was the opulent Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese 2003 paired with a delicious and perfectly prepared Bavarian Apple Strudel. Josephshöfer is one of many vineyards surrounding the famous village of Graach on the Mosel's south-facing slopes that are steep and have grey, weathered Devon slate soil with a high proportion of fine earth.

These specific physical conditions result in full-bodied, spicy and aromatic wines with an unbelievable ageing potential. The aroma of the wine was overwhelming, as if you were in a herb garden. Dense and full-bodied, with fruity sweetness coupled with brilliant acidity, reminiscent of a basket full of wonderful ripe fruits, this was a really great wine experience and made a fitting end to a marvellous meal.

Annegret and Gerhard Gartner were able to achieve the almost impossible, as all of the guests seemed to enjoy this perfectly laid out, wine dinner and went back with happy memories. If you are in Powai, Frateli Fresh is just a hop and a skip away. Miss it and you forego a stellar fine dining opportunity.

The Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Rieslings, imported and distributed by The Wine Park, range from Rs.4000/- to Rs.8500/-.

Doing the Zampa Crush at the Nasik Vineyard

2010-02-07T05:06:08Z

Over 450 wine enthusiasts welcomed the upcoming harvest season on the 31st January in Zampa Vineyards in Nasik. 'Do the Twist and crush the grapes to the music!' - was the mantra that was chanted at the Zampa Crush festival as visitors celebrated the grape crushing, writes Jyoti Balani.

]]> Ravi Jain, Deepak Roy and Neeraj Deorah played gracious hosts and entertained their guests with several interesting activities which included grape crushing, a soothing foot spa at the top of the hill, live performance by JUNKT and a fascinating tour of
the vineyard.

Private tasting in the Zampa Cellar wit Nik van Arde, chief winemaker

Grape stomping uplifted the spirits of wine enthusiasts Ashwin Deo, Kishen Mulchandani, Naaz and Remu Zhaveri and Shamita Singha as they were seen revelling in the celebration and immersing themselves in an afternoon of sheer pleasure. There was a private wine tasting at the winery's cellar where guests tasted wines straight from the barrel by Zampa's South African winemaker, Nic Van Aarde.

Grape stomping was followed by a tour of the winery. Also present among the guests having a fabulous time were socialites from Mumbai and Pune such as Tejasvini Kolhapure, Manasi Scott, Mashoom Singha and Sanea Sheikh.

Watch for more coverage in the print issue of Sommelier India WINE magazine.

How green is my wine?

2010-02-01T18:29:34Z

When Spanish wine producer and journalist Victor de la Serna told me how much less his 2008 production would weigh after he switched to lighter bottles, I thought he had put a decimal point in the wrong place. Jancis Robinson pulls no punches in her impassioned appeal to the wine industry's 'green' conscience, in this extract from her column in Sommelier India WINE magazine, January/February 2010.

]]> When Spanish wine producer and journalist Victor de la Serna told me how much less his 2008 production would weigh after he switched to lighter bottles, I thought he had put a decimal point in the wrong place. But no, he assured me, by choosing 400g bottles in place of the old 650g models for Finca Sandoval, his relatively small winery in the Spanish region of Manchuela, he would be saving 20 tons of glass, and of course all the energy required to transport that extra weight.

I did another double-take towards the end of last year when Nicola Jenkin of WRAP, the UK body that encourages sustainable business practices, told delegates at the Wine Future conference in Rioja quite how much glass the world's wine industry uses each year: the equivalent in weight of 49,000 jumbo jets.

The day after she delivered her bracing talk to almost 1,000 wine luminaries from around the world, I discussed it with the head of one of Spain's largest wine companies. "Well, that sort of thing doesn't really matter, does it?" he said. "I mean, wine's one of the most natural products on earth." This was just before he proudly showed me his new, 2,400 sq m barrel hall, installed on top of a hill and as tall as a three-storey house, but with every barrel on the floor. He did admit that the air conditioning bills in summer were considerable, failing entirely to see the irony of being surrounded by scores of small, private wine cellars, all carefully burrowed out of the hillside to take advantage of the naturally cool temperatures there.

The wine industry may not be the worst offender in the global scheme of things at a time when the planet seems to have such a desperately short time to avert disaster, but precisely because wine has (so far) enjoyed the reputation of being one of the most 'natural' products, wine producers should surely do everything they can to preserve that image - difficult enough in view of several recent television exposés alerting consumers to the chemical additives used by many producers in both vineyards and cellars. Some observers think that public attitudes will change so fast that before too long we will want to see carbon footprint details on all wine labels.

Read the whole article in print in Sommelier India WINE magazine, January/February 2010. Subscribe here.

Errata: Please note the correction: The glass used by the world's wine industry each year is the equivalent in weight of 49,000 jumbo jets and not the figure quoted in print.

Terroir - The Madras Wine Club views "Sideways"

2010-02-01T16:39:46Z

The first event of 2010 at Terroir - The Madras Wine Club was a private screening of the movie "Sideways" at a small auditorium in a hotel open exclusively for Terroir members and spouses on 24th January. It was a Bring Your Own Wine event.

]]> And, in keeping with the tastes of Miles Raymond, the wine-loving hero, only the following wines were acceptable:

Pinot Noir which he raves about
Merlot which he refuses to drink, because he "hates f*****g Merlot"
Riesling which he once thought was unsophisticated but "not any more".

Although it was not a new movie and many had seen it before, the story of the two friends (Miles Raymond and Jack Cole) who go on a road trip through California's wine country before one of them is to get married was enjoyed even more in the cozy company of club members. Wine was poured after the movie had run for an hour with the snacks provided by the hotel nicely complementing the wine.

The end of the movie found us sitting around sipping our wine, discussing the film and getting to know new members. As one member remarked, "I had forgotten what a fun film Sideways was - an experience enhanced by good wine, good conversation and good company." Another important observation was that we had an equal number of bottles of Merlot and Pinot Noir.

Terroir plans to have more such events that add value by educating us on the subject of wine while also promoting bonhomie amongst members.

Results you can trust, Sommelier India Wine Competition

2010-02-01T04:19:59Z

Steven Spurrier analyses the results of the Sommelier India Wine Competition which was conducted along the lines of international competitions and endorses their validity. Editor's Note: This article appears in the current issue of Sommelier India WINE magazine which was mailed in early January to subscribers.

]]> Much has been written about the planning and organisation of the inaugural Sommelier India Wine Competition that, however much admiration I have for 'the competition that inspires confidence', I can add nothing more. The names of the judges - a veritable who's who of the Indian wine scene - who gave so generously of their time, have also been recorded. My comments on their professionalism and dedication appear elsewhere in this issue. However, what I would like to comment on here is the nature of the results.

For wine competitions to have value for both the producer and the consumer, it is important that every single wine is judged by independently-minded professionals in conditions where the wines will give of their best. The glasses (Riedel, of course), the temperature of service, the service itself, everything has to be of the highest standard and I am glad to say that at the ITC Grand Central this was the case. So in my view, as Chairman of the SIWC - and equally Chairman of the Decanter World Wine Awards and the Japan Wine Challenge where the judging follows similar lines - the results have validity.

It must be remembered that wine competitions are the joint opinion of the judges at a particular point in time. The same table - in this case a table of three judges - judging the same wines the next day might well come up with a different result. A different table judging the same wines on the same day would be unlikely to offer an exact copy of their colleagues' rankings.

On the day of the competition, wines that showed poorly did not receive compensation and wines that showed well, did. Out of a total of 415 wines, 225 (54.2%) received an award, with 18 Golds (4.3%), 64 Silvers (15.4%), 96 Bronzes (23.1%) and 47 Commendeds (11.3%).

A closer look at the SIWC results show that of the 312 imported wines, 62.5%wonawardsona4.8%,18.6%,27.6%and11.5%basis for gold, silver, bronze and commended. By contrast, the 103 Indian wines gained only 29.1% awards,with 2.9% Gold, 5.8% Silver, 9.7% Bronze and 10.7% Commended. The conclusion, obvious enough, is that the imported wines were better than the Indian wines, but a little more analysis is useful.

The rules of the competition were that while all wines produced in India were eligible, only those international wines already imported into the country could enter. In both the DWWA and the JWC (neither the UK nor Japan are significant wine producing countries but both are significant markets for imported wine) all international wines even those not yet imported could be submitted. The producers hoped that after being judged by experts the wines would attract attention and find an importer.

Not so at the SIWC. If one assumes that few Indian importers would go out of their way to import poor wine (particularly with the stringently expensive taxes that are imposed before sale) a ratio of almost two-thirds awards for international wines from the qualified judging panels, whose instructions were to reward quality, is quite acceptable. That less than one-third of the Indian wines were recognised in this way could mean two things: one that they were simply not good enough and, two, that the judges might have been more severe with their home-grown wines than with the more expensive, imported varieties.

My view is that it was a bit of both, and that the message Indian wine producers should take away from the inaugural SIWC is that only consistent quality in the glass will assure regular sales to contented clients. The aim in judging wine in such a competition is not simply to "separate the wheat from the chaff", but to recognise and reward quality.

Wines are not judged against each other, but individually, like-with-like in small flights. It is just as inconceivable that 100 wines judged this way would receive 100 awards as it is that they would receive 0 awards. Everything being equal, good wines will receive awards and poor wines will not. If Indian wineries put quality first, the rewards will come. Let us hope that this time next year this will be the case!

A good whine, Monocle on the Indian wine scene

2010-01-31T15:21:56Z

Finding a decent glass of wine in India is enough to drive a person to drink. While wine is increasingly popular - consumption is expected to increase between 25 per cent and 30 per cent a year between 2009 and 2012 - polite drinkers would probably describe many of the over-sweet offerings from the nation's vineyards as "passable". Others would be able to come up with some much pithier descriptions says Jason Staines of Monocle, the well-regarded global briefining magazine.

]]> India's young wine industry, concentrated in the states of Maharashtra and Karnataka, is still finding its feet in many ways as vineyards experiment with grape varieties and production techniques.

But drinkers looking for salvation from abroad end up paying over the odds for their tipple thanks to provincial and federal levies that can inflate the cost of imported wine to something approaching 10 times its retail price in the rest of the world.

Karnataka's legislators have slapped a 300 rupee per litre tax on any wine, even Indian, not produced in the state. For its part, Maharashtra imposes a 200 per cent excise on non-local wines, making a glass of Australian semillon in Mumbai an expensive proposition.

For Karnataka, the tax hike is paying off, with the state now boasting 11 wineries, up from its previous two. While this approach fills the coffers of Indian state governments it also stifles innovation in an industry that desperately needs competition to improve.
"Indian wine still remains the most accessible wine for a large number of Indian, novice wine-drinkers. Those who can't afford imported wines drink Indian wine," says wine consultant Harshal Shah.

"If this demographic had foreign wines at similar prices to Indian wines, two things would happen. One, the Indian palate would broaden and learn to appreciate different wine styles. Two, local producers would be forced to compete - raise their game - with foreign wines."

Even those striving to produce the best product can be undermined by India's infrastructure. Long distances, a lack of refrigerated trucks and crumbling roads mean a carefully constructed wine can arrive battered and bruised. The suffering doesn't end there, as poor storage conditions at many retailers exacerbate the problem.

However, all is not lost. Local wine magazine Sommelier India held its first wine competition in November, with judges awarding gold medals to nine Indian wines. Earlier this year, the first Indian International Wine Fair revealed an industry that wants wine - both domestic and foreign - to flourish in the country.

Shah remains optimistic. "The quality of local wine is getting better as producers are focusing on hygiene in the winery and consistency in the vineyard and cellar.
"The next step is definition of style: we want to be able to pick up a glass of wine and identify it as 'Indian'. I'm confident this can happen within 10 years, provided there is regulation of the industry and a lowering of trade barriers," he says.

For more on Monocle, visit their website.

A string of pearls from Washington State

2010-01-31T13:27:45Z

Château Ste. Michelle Wine Estates dominates in the Pacific Northwest of the US and can be numbered among the big international liquor companies such as Constellation, Diageo, Pernod Ricard and others in its own distinctive way. Al Portney, Vice President, International Sales, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates was in India this January.

]]> Château Ste. Michelle is the oldest winery in Washington State and has set the benchmark for quality. The estate is located in Washington State's Columbia Valley, a wine region that is unique in North America due to latitude, climate and soil. Although with a similar longitude as that of Napa Valley, the Columbia Valley region lies along the same latitude as Burgundy and Bordeaux. Known for their elegance and structure, the estate wines are often compared to the classic wines of the old world.

"Ours is a unique business model," said Portney. He likened Ste. Michelle Wine Estates to a string of pearls - a collection of companies and wine estates each with a story of its own that complement and do not compete with each other. "You can add or take out a 'pearl' here and there without breaking the strand. The Ste. Michelle company is the "string," providing administrative and financial support for these extraordinary wine properties whose vineyards produce some of the best wines in the world." (See www.smwe.com).

Interestingly, it's not a German or any other European winery that is the leading brand in the world selling Riesling, Portney pointed out, but a brand from the US and a state that people don't know that well. "Riesling was the first grape we planted and our first wine produced in 1997."

Washington grown, but world renowned, as the slogan goes, these wines may already be familiar to Indian wine connoisseurs. The wines can be found in top hotels and restaurants around the world, Portney pointed out, not forgetting Indian five star hotels and fine dining restaurants. They also feature in First and Business Class cabins of several airlines such as Swiss Air, Lufthansa, KLM, Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific.

WINES TO TASTE
Château Ste. Michelle Riesling
A beautiful example of a Riesling and another benchmark wine for the Estate. Tropical fruit notes such as litchi dominate. Some may discern mangoes with peaches and lemons. The three essential components of residual sugar, total acidity and alcohol are perfectly balanced. This a wine that will appeal to many palates. It pairs just as well with sushi and Caesar salad as with more spicy food.

Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay
Golden hue with nicely layered aromas of green apples, pears and vanilla. Aged in medium toasted barrels and quite well balanced. This is a great food wine. It finishes long and fat and has a little more body which makes it pair well with richer dishes.

Erath Pinot Noir 2007
Sunny golden colour, fruity on the nose with a delicate strawberry aroma and soft tannins. 2005 and 2006 were warmer years producing smaller berries with more concentration whereas 2007 was a more typical vintage with very good fruit. "We used all the tools in the shed to bring out its best. The must was fermented gently in open tanks with micro-oxygenation and spent only a short time in oak barrels to round it off," said Portney.

Erath Pinot Gris
Pale lemon colour with a fresh, racy acidity and a hint of flintiness, this Pinot Gris combines the best of the old and new world with lovely fruit plus the acidity and structure found in wines of the classic wine growing regions of Europe.

" Our region is conducive to allow us to combine both traditions," noted Portney. Pinot Gris is a varietal that our consumers prefer so the Estate responded to this call and is providing some of the best examples possible."

A new wine club opens in Delhi

2010-01-31T11:12:30Z

We are pleased to note the growth of wine culture in the capital marked by the proliferation of wine clubs. To cater to a different demographic than that served by the established clubs in the city Isheeta Gupta has launched Saturday Wine Club at Ai which sounds like a fun place to be.

]]> "The idea is to encourage people in the age group of 25 upwards who are keen to start drinking and learning about wine but don't know where to start - people who want to learn while having fun," says Isheeta.

Events will be held once a fortnight on Saturday nights from 8.30 - 10.30 pm for roughly 40-50 guests. Four wines will be served at each event. Depending on the weather and availability of wine, the events will have a mix of red and white wine and possibly sparkling wine.

"Eventually we will also do Champagne tastings and horizontal tastings of the same grape from different countries. We will be presenting wines from a range of suppliers," adds Isheeta, whose father imports wine. His company is called Amfora Wines.

A sommelier will be hired to conduct the tastings and also interact with the guests in an informal way. "To keep posted on events, members may join our Facebook group," says Isheeta. "Attendance is mainly by advance booking since the events are small so we encourage people to book so they are not disappointed later."

The club is looking for sponsorship for its events. "Since Ai is a premium restaurant, we are looking to tie up with luxury brands," she says. "Sponsors will have the opportunity to interact with their target audience and be associated with wine at one of Delhi's top restaurants and bars."

Sarah Palin crushing Democrats and grapes?

2010-01-24T14:27:53Z

Former Republican Vice Presidential candidate Sarah Palin has been invited to keynote the annual convention of the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America which 330 member companies through whom 70% of the wines in America are distributed. This is the first time that the convention has chosen someone outside of the wine industry to keynote. Could you imagine Narendra Modi keynoting one of our Indian wine conferences?

]]> What makes the choice all the more surprising is that the Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America supports the governments highly regulated alcohol distribution system in America. Palin supposedly stands for free enterprise and limited government involvement in business and limited tax too.

When announcing the selection of Ms. Palin, Craig Wolf, the president and chief executive of the wholesalers association, explained it in this way,

"Governor Palin is a great supporter of America's free enterprise system and understands that industries like the beverage alcohol industry play a key role in driving our national economy,'' he said. "We're proud and honored to welcome her as a speaker. We expect she will share with the convention attendees her analysis of the current political environment and her vision for America's future."

Few attendees expect her to spend much time discuss the wine business. And while the convention will probably see a spike in ticket sales with her as a keynote, it'll probably upset a lot of people who lean left too. During the 2008 election many derided her for her lack of foreign policy experience and the fact that she didn't know why North and South Korea were divided.

Arguably, she doesn't have much to contribute to the wine discourse (other than through this) and the speaking engagement may invariably bring unwanted extra attention to the association. But you never know.

The Paradox of Restaurant Wine Lists

2010-01-23T21:35:12Z

There's a secret about wine lists at high end restaurants that you really should know. The cheaper wines aren't necessarily bad wines. In many cases, they're not only the best value for money but sometimes even among the better wines on the list. Why's this the case?

]]> It all comes down to the Sommelier. Most Sommeliers pride themselves in being able to put together a wine list that has something for every palette and every price point. More than ever, Sommeliers recognize that it is harder to find impressive wines at the lower prices and they put extra effort into choosing good wines to round out their more glamorous and expensive labels. That's one of the ways in which they demonstrate their expertise and resourcefulness.

There's something else to also keep in mind - the most popular bottle on a wine list is usually the second cheapest wine. Why? Because many a consumer is afraid to come across as being cheap by buying the least expensive wine on the wine list. The second cheapest wine is what the consumers gravitate to. Sommeliers know this and accordingly choose those wines carefully as well.

So the next time you're in a restaurant, look over the cheaper wines. They'll tell you more about the Sommelier and how seriously the restaurant takes food and wine pairing than the expensive wines on the list.

Four Seasons Reserve launched in Bangalore

2010-01-14T09:59:03Z

UB's formal launch of the Four Seasons Reserve range of wines took place in great style in Bangalore on 11 January 2010, writes Ruma Singh.
Left:Guests raising a toast to SIWC award winner Four Seasons Viognier

]]> The venue was the newly opened luxury hotel, ITC The Royal Gardenia. It was a date that wine lovers around the city just couldn't miss. Early pre-launch tasting dinners with the Bangalore Wine Club and other exclusive wine forums had got the city's wine fraternity keenly awaiting the launch.
Right: Abhay Kewadkar, Vijay Rekhi and Anand Rao

Guests were welcomed with chilled glasses of Four Seasons Rosé before moving to the grand Mysore Hall, where a four course feast had been arranged by Executive Chef Madhu Krishnan keeping in mind a high powered guest list, which included 120 of the city's top wine lovers and society bigwigs.

The asparagus and tellegio cremacotta, charmingly served in miniature jars, was a huge hit paired with the SIWC Gold medal-winning Four Seasons Viognier. Guests relaxed and enjoyed the ambience of the elegantly appointed hall with its ornate crystal chandeliers and giant orchid-laden table centre pieces as the dinner progressed.

Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Shiraz (an SIWC Bronze medal winner) accompanied an unusual pairing of Poached Bassa Tian with Orzo and Fennel served with Leek Beurre Blanc or Butternut Squash for the non-vegetarians and Ricotta Gnocchi with Roma Tomato Confit and Provolone cheese shavings for the vegetarians. The third course was a choice of Charred Bell Pepper and Eggplant Parmigiana, Spring Chicken Ballotine with water chestnut and sage stuffing or New Zealand Lamb Chops pan grilled with hazelnut and tarragon crust - all served with the Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

The grand finalé was grand indeed, and irresistible for those with discerning tastebuds and a sweet tooth - a duet of lavender perfumed Raspberry Jelly and Citrus Cocoa Pyramids orchestrated with Mascarpone (cream cheese) and Balsamic Berries served with a popular, French wine from the UB stable: the Bouvet-Ladubay Rosé Excellence.

Abhay Kewadkar, the brain and palate behind the exceptional Four Seasons range of wines, was clearly a happy man. Introducing the wines, he spoke of plans to transform wine-based tourism in India by converting their Baramati vineyards into a luxury tourist destination where wine lovers can taste, buy and store their own wines in the long term while enjoying a holiday. Managing director of UB, Vijay Rekhi was clearly proud of the grand showing by his company's wines as he gave a vote of thanks to Anand Rao, GM and Area Manager, ITC The Royal Gardenia.

With Indian wines touching new heights in terms of achievement and growth, and hotels pulling out all stops to present world-class wine evenings, it's not hard to see why appreciation for Indian wine is growing at a very healthy pace. And Bangalore is rapidly getting a reputation for leading the way.
Right: Stanley Pinto, Shawn Michelle and Brijette

The Fours Seasons Reserve range includes the FS Barrique Reserve Shiraz, and the FS Barrique Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The prices range (according to the state where the wine is being sold) from Rs 800 to 900. While it can easily be drunk now, the winemaker advises storing it for 2-5 years for optimum taste and enjoyment.

Tantalizingly Torres

2010-01-13T07:43:13Z

The members of Terrior One, Delhi Wine Club - Mumbai chapter, were floored by a visit from the king of wine-making from Spain at the JW Marriot Hotel, Juhu. Suneeta Sodhi Kanga from Sommelier India WINE magazine was a special invitee.
Right: Miguel Torres with Suneeta Kanga

]]> Miguel A. Torres, the stalwart winemaker, who was on his way to Kerala for a short vacation, decided to stop by in Mumbai where he, along with his very charming wife, Waltraud, hosted a elegant winemaker's dinner for about 30 people at Mezzo Mezzo, the popular Italian restaurant at the Marriot.
Mrs Bindu Malhotra , President of the club along with Sumit Sehgal, Chief General Manager - Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt Ltd , and Mr. Faiek El Saadani, Director of Food and Beverage, warmly welcomed the members and guided them through this wonderful evening of exemplary wine and food. Also present was Babita Malkani, from the executive committee of Terrior One.

Left: Bindu Malhotra, President - Terrior Wine Club, Babita Malkani, Fashion Designer and Faiek El Saadani, Director F&B, JW Marriott Mumbai

The De Casta Rose 2008, a pretty pink Granacha and Carinena blend from the Torres' cellar was a perfect start to the evening. A cocktail menu of Porcini, scallops, roast quail and eggplant roulade with goat cheese kept the guests contented while they waited for Mr. Torres to arrive.

Seated around a beautifully decorated banquet table, we were introduced to the three-hundred year-old Torres wine giant through an interesting film. The film took us to their sites in Catalonia, Chile and California and talked about the history, vineyards scattered across the globe, wineries and wine-making techniques, the family's commitment to wine and environmental and social concerns.

The Tower (Torres in Spanish) of the evening was undoubtedly Mr. Miguel Torres who continued with an oenological guided tour of his wines. The first course of Lobster was accompanied by the single vineyard Fransola 2007 Sauvignon Blanc that came all the way from the high mountains of North Catalonia. This wine had an intense, voluptuous bouquet with aromatic notes of various fruits and plants. The wine was round and full-bodied with excellent structure.

Vina Esmeralda 2007, a delightful Moscatel and Gerwurztraminer blend set the mood for an elegant evening. The vegetarian first course was a perfect match to this exceptionally delicate and strikingly fragrant wine.

The Gran Sangre De Toro 2003, which according to Brand Ambassador, Marc Perello, translates to a very masculine, 'big blood of the bull', lived up to its name. This chunky, full-bodied wine, a blend of Granacha Tinta, Carinena and Syrah, matched well with the main course of roast lamb and chicken.

The Celeste 2006 Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) was an opulent wine brimming with fruit, body and colour - as unique as the night sky, from where it gets its name. This wine displayed a toasty, smoky aroma which comes from being aged in French and American oak. Very fruity at first, with ripened tannins on the palate, but also persistent and full bodied.

A selection of cheeses was served and the best wine of the evening was saved for the last - the Mas La Plana 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, which comes from 40-year-old vines. These grapes are used to make limited quantities of Torres' most prestigious red wine, now known to connoisseurs all over the world. The 1970 vintage triumphed over some of the most famous wines in the world, including Chateau Latour, at the Paris Wine Olympiad. It had a wonderfully intense bouquet, hints of cranberries, cherries and truffles with a full, elegant and pronounced aftertaste. A symphony on your palate!

Brandy reaffirms a good meal and lends it a touch of distinction, necessary for bringing it to a close with a persistent and vibrant finish and the Torres 10 Brandy did just that. Dessert of bitter chocolate crème brulee and saffron gelato brought the evening to an end. Faiek El Saadani and Chef Orianna (world acrobatic pizza champion) and her team, were felicitated by Mrs. Torres with a bottle of their fine wine.

The dinner was officially over but it looked like no one wanted to leave. Mumbai is certainly coming of age as a city of evolved tastes and sophisticated dining. All of the 30 odd guests seemed to have enjoyed the evening and went back with happy memories, hoping there would an encore coming up soon.

Torres is today associated with top quality wine in over 140 countries. It has been available in India for a few years and is distributed by Prestige Wines and Spirits Pvt. Ltd.

VDP membership expands. More producers included

2010-01-13T05:48:36Z

VDP or Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter, the German association of premium wine producers, saw an expansion of its membership with the start of the New Year. The VDP membership has increased to 196 with three new members.

]]> The Association now extends to the south and the east of the country, with two producers in Baden included in the south. Thomas Seeger in Leimen and Konrad Schlör in Reicholzheim. In the east, Klaus Zimmerling in the Dresden suburb of Pillnitz recently joined the VDP. In the last 20 years several producers have both joined, and left, the association. Since 1990, 73 producers have left the VDP while 108 have been accepted. According to VDP president Steffen Christmann, the VDP brand is stronger than ever due to the rigorous policy of high quality followed in the past 20 years.

This year marks the VDP's 100th anniversary.